What to do in a Desert Garden in July?

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for July
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.9 inches
Record: 6.5 inches (1911)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 105.9 degrees
Lowest High: 79 degrees (1911)
Record High: 121 degrees (1995)

Average Low: 81 degrees
Highest Low: 93 degrees (1989)
Record Low: 63 degrees (1912)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Plant Bermuda lawns during the active growing season, May through August

Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns each month beginning late April or early May with 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.

Apply six ounces of Iron per 1,000 square feet per month.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

Once every two or three years dethatch Bermuda lawns if necessary. Only dethatch during the active growing season, May through August. This enables the turf to quickly recover.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds
Beans (Pinto& Snap), Corn, Armenian Cucumbers, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Pumpkins, Winter Squash, Sunflowers

Plant Transplants

Peppers, Tomatoes

Place shade cloth over tomatoes.

Roses

Cut back on fertilizing established roses to encourage plants to slow down for the hot summer

Water deeply as temperatures climb

Hose off plants in the early morning to increase humidity and control spider mites

Fruit and Nut Trees

Pick early-maturing deciduous fruit varieties, which are particularly prone to bird damage, before full maturity. Ripened at room temperature to lessen the bird peck loss.

Cover fruit trees to protect from birds

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Increase water application as the weather warms. June is the driest month. Pay attention to irrigation needs of plants.

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Prune palms when flower spathes show or delay pruning until after the palm has finished flowering to prevent infestation of Palm Flower caterpillars. If palms are pruned in the spring, leave the top five rows of peels so the caterpillars have a place to hide.

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Native and imported heat tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall.

Transplant palms in the heat of the summer for best results

Protect newly transplanted trees from heavy winds and dust storms by staking carefully

Don't List . . .

Do not expose citrus and other sun sensitive plants to sunburn by pruning during the summer

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Tomato Bloom Drop and failure to set fruit
Hot air and dry temperatures cause the blooms to drop off and the pollen to dry up. The pollen of many vegetables, including tomatoes is not viable once the temperatures get over 90 degrees. Provide shade. Nurse the plants through the summer and they will begin producing again in the fall. Or pull them out and plant new ones in the late summer for fall production.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Vegetables are not setting fruit

Many of our helpful European honey bees have been annihilated by people trying to protect themselves from Africanized honey bees. In addition, many bees have been killed by mites. As a result they are not available to assist with pollination. Squash, melons, cucumbers and other vegetables that have separate male and female flowers will benefit from hand pollination. Early in the morning use a cotton swab to take pollen from the male flower and place it female flower.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop

Seasonal Leaf drop is normal intensified by hot, dry weather

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

Pines are dying back from the tips
This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Tomato Bloom Drop and failure to set fruit
Hot air and dry temperatures cause the blooms to drop off and the pollen to dry up. The pollen of many vegetables, including tomatoes is not viable once the temperatures get over 90 degrees. Provide shade. Nurse the plants through the summer and they will begin producing again in the fall. Or pull them out and plant new ones in the late summer for fall production.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop

Seasonal Leaf drop is normal intensified by hot, dry weather

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Insect/Pest Questions

Vegetables are not setting fruit
Many of our helpful European honey bees have been annihilated by people trying to protect themselves from Africanized honey bees. In addition, many bees have been killed by mites. As a result they are not available to assist with pollination. Squash, melons, cucumbers and other vegetables that have separate male and female flowers will benefit from hand pollination. Early in the morning use a cotton swab to take pollen from the male flower and place it female flower.

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

What are those things that look like roaches on steroids?

There are tiny little white flies everywhere!

What is making that incredibly loud noise?

Disease Questions There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Onward and update - June 1 update

It seems a little late to advise planting melon seeds now (see previous post)! But maybe there's hope for my puny melon plants. Only the cucumber and the honeydews have really taken off. Lots of bloom but no fruit set so far.

The Early Girl and cherry tomatoes are at peak harvest. The yellow pear tomatoes are just starting to ripen. They are cute but a little bland for my taste.

Japanese eggplant and zucchini for picking every day. There's good looking chard too but somehow I avoid it right now. I'm letting the last few artichokes stay on the plant. They are small and I do like the blossoms when they mature.

I removed the Italian (flat) parsley but the curly parsley and the basil is doing well. The peppers continue to languish.

I picked the first butternut squash this week. However, I was informed that usually people leave them on the vine until the whole plant withers. This will result in a deeper flavor and harder shell. They are called winter squash because the hard shell makes them keep well through the winter! I did not know that before.

We did have a very few nectarines and aprium, tasty but not enough. The second peach tree is starting to ripen. We just picked the last grapefruit - it is still not as good as the others in the neighborhood and I am thinking of removing it.

We did remove the giant lime tree and it is strange to have that pocket of sunlight in the orchard. Maybe I'll plant big flowers like hollyhocks and sunflowers there next year.

What to do in a Desert Garden in June?

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for June
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.1 inches
Record: 1.7 inches (1972)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 103.5 degrees
Lowest High: 68 degrees (1899)
Record High: 122 degrees (1990)

Average Low: 72.9 degrees
Highest Low: 93 degrees (1990)
Record Low: 49 degrees (1908)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Plant Bermuda lawns during the active growing season, May through August

Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns with Nitrogen each month beginning late April or early May according to the directions on the fertilizer package.

Apply Iron one a month according to the directions on the fertilizer package.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

Once every two or three years dethatch Bermuda lawns if necessary. Only dethatch during the active growing season, May through August. This enables the turf to quickly recover.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds

Armenian Cucumbers, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Sunflowers

Plant Transplants

Sweet Potatoes

Roses

Cut back on fertilizing established roses to encourage plants to slow down for the hot summer

Water deeply as temperatures climb

Hose off plants in the early morning to increase humidity and control spider mites

Fruit and Nut Trees

Pick early-maturing deciduous fruit varieties, which are particularly prone to bird damage, before full maturity. Ripened at room temperature to lessen the bird peck loss.

Cover fruit trees with netting to protect from birds

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Increase water application as the weather warms. June is the driest month. Pay attention to irrigation needs of plants.

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Prune palms when flower spathes show or delay pruning until after the palm has finished flowering to prevent infestation of Palm Flower caterpillars. If palms are pruned in the spring, leave the top five rows of peels so the caterpillars have a place to hide.

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Native and imported heat tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall.

Transplant palms in the heat of the summer for best results.

If you have previously had a problem, apply around the base of Agaves a pesticide labeled for use on grubs in order to kill the grubs of the Agave Weevil.

Don't List . . .

Do not expose citrus and other sun sensitive plants to sunburn by pruning during the summer

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit drop
The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Tomato Bloom Drop and failure to set fruit

Hot air and dry temperatures cause the blooms to drop off and the pollen to dry up. The pollen of many vegetables, including tomatoes is not viable once the temperatures get over 90 degrees. Provide shade. Nurse the plants through the summer and they will begin producing again in the fall. Or pull them out and plant new ones in the late summer for fall production.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Vegetables are not setting fruit

Many of our helpful European honey bees have been annihilated by people trying to protect themselves from Africanized honey bees. In addition, many bees have been killed by mites. As a result they are not available to assist with pollination. Squash, melons, cucumbers and other vegetables that have separate male and female flowers will benefit from hand pollination. Early in the morning use a cotton swab to take pollen from the male flower and place it female flower.

The pollen of many vegetables is not viable in high temperatures so they do not set fruit in the summer.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

Leaves of my squash, pumpkin, cucumber, cantaloupe and/or watermelon wilt, turn black and die. Sometimes an entire plant or section of a plant dies while nearby plants remain healthy.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

Pines are dying back from the tips
This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Tomato Bloom Drop and failure to set fruit
Hot air and dry temperatures cause the blooms to drop off and the pollen to dry up. The pollen of many vegetables, including tomatoes is not viable once the temperatures get over 90 degrees. Provide shade. Nurse the plants through the summer and they will begin producing again in the fall. Or pull them out and plant new ones in the late summer for fall production.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of some of the newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. Unless it is extreme, or there are additional symptoms there is probably no cause for concern.

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Insect/Pest Questions

Vegetables are not setting fruit
Many of our helpful European honey bees have been annihilated by people trying to protect themselves from Africanized honey bees. In addition, many bees have been killed by mites. As a result they are not available to assist with pollination. Squash, melons, cucumbers and other vegetables that have separate male and female flowers will benefit from hand pollination. Early in the morning use a cotton swab to take pollen from the male flower and place it female flower.

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

There are light green and brownish black bugs feeding on my squash, pumpkins, cantaloupe, cucumber and/or watermelons.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

Disease QuestionsThere is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

What to do in a Desert Garden in May?

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for May
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.1 inches
Record: 1.3 inches (1930)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 93.6 degrees
Lowest High: 54 degrees (1915)
Record High: 114 degrees (1910)

Average Low: 63.9 degrees
Highest Low: 86 degrees (1983)
Record Low: 39 degrees (1899)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Plant Bermuda lawns when soil warms up in mid to late May.

Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns each month beginning late April or early May with nitrogen according to the directions on the package.

Apply Iron each month according to the directions on the package.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

Once every two or three years dethatch Bermuda lawns if necessary. Only dethatch during the active growing season, May through August. This enables the turf to quickly recover.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds
Black eyed Peas, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Okra, Sunflowers

Plant Transplants

Jerusalem Artichokes, Sweet Potatoes

Place shade cloth over tomatoes.

Roses

Continue fertilizing established roses, liquid fertilizers can be added at 2 week intervals, follow the directions on the container.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Plant Citrus Trees - Young two to five year old trees transplant most successfully. Larger, older trees are more costly, harder to transplant without injury (to yourself and the tree), and suffer more from transplant shock. It will generally be three years after transplant before fruit production and that is the same whether you plant a 2 year old tree or a 10 year old tree. Go small!

Pick early-maturing deciduous fruit varieties, which are particularly prone to bird damage, before full maturity. Ripened at room temperature to lessen the bird peck loss.

Cover fruit trees to protect from birds

Give special attention to watering deciduous fruit trees, provide adequate soil moisture for fruit sizing in the late April and May period.

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Increase water application as the weather warms.

Tree water use, desert types being the exception, increases rapidly during this period of leafing out and gradually higher air temperatures.

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation. Be sure to keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent pest and disease problems.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Prune palms when flower spathes show or delay pruning until after the palm has finished flowering to prevent infestation of Palm Flower caterpillars. If palms are pruned in the spring, leave the top five rows of peels so the caterpillars have a place to hide.

Don't List . . .

Do not prune citrus except to remove dead or damaged wood and branches obstructing pathways, views, or structures.

Do not use pre-emergent herbicides in an area in which you intend to plant seeds.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

There are large bright red and black or all black bugs on my fruit

Vegetables are not setting fruit

Many of our helpful European honey bees have been annihilated by people trying to protect themselves from Africanized honey bees. In addition, many bees have been killed by mites. As a result they are not available to assist with pollination. Squash, melons, cucumbers and other vegetables that have separate male and female flowers will benefit from hand pollination. Early in the morning use a cotton swab to take pollen from the male flower and place it female flower.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

Pines are dying back from the tips
This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Damage is Noticed on the Roots Cultural / Environmental Questions

Tomatoes and or Peppers have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of some of the newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. Unless it is extreme, or there are additional symptoms there is probably no cause for concern.

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Insect/Pest Questions

There are large bright red and black or all black bugs on my fruit

Vegetables are not setting fruit

Many of our helpful European honey bees have been annihilated by people trying to protect themselves from Africanized honey bees. In addition, many bees have been killed by mites. As a result they are not available to assist with pollination. Squash, melons, cucumbers and other vegetables that have separate male and female flowers will benefit from hand pollination. Early in the morning use a cotton swab to take pollen from the male flower and place it female flower.

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

There are hundreds of small gray bugs in the yard, some are even coming in the house

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

How do I get rid of Black Widow Spiders?

Disease Questions There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Got Fruit?

We put up netting - the peaches are getting ripe.

The new yellow fig tree is very happy.

The roses are blooming like crazy. If only I could smell them! Can't wait till my cold is gone.

No Fooling

Garden update for April 1, 2009.

What to do in a Desert Garden in April?

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for April in Phoenix, Arizona

Rainfall:

Average: 0.22 inches
Record: 3.4 inches (1926)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 84.5 degrees
Lowest High: 52 degrees
Record High: 105 degrees (1989, 1992)

Average Low: 55.3 degrees
Highest Low: 77 degrees
Record Low: 35 degrees (1922)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

go to top

To Do List . . .
Fruit and Nut Trees

Plant Citrus Trees - Young two to five year old trees transplant most successfully. Larger, older trees are more costly, harder to transplant without injury (to yourself and the tree), and suffer more from transplant shock. It will generally be three years after transplant before fruit production and that is the same whether you plant a 2 year old tree or a 10 year old tree. Go small!

Thin deciduous fruit to 6 inch spacing. The earlier this is done after fruit set, the more size response will be expected in fruit remaining on the tree.

Give special attention to deciduous fruit trees, provide adequate soil moisture for fruit sizing in the late April and May period.

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Herbs

Frosty winter nipped your herb garden? It is usually safe to prune winter damage from your herb plants anytime after mid-March - perfect now, if you haven't yet taken care of this garden chore. Inspect your Basil, Lemon grass, Peppers, Mexican Tarragon and other frost sensitive plants closely, looking for new growth emerging on the lower half of the plant. Use sharp shears to cut the plant back by 1/3 to 1/2 or more, down to healthy new side shoots. Top dress the plants with new compost and water well for a fresh start.

Small white balls of frothy foam may show up on the new growth of some of your herbs in spring, especially on Rosemary, Sage and other woody perennial herb plants. These 1/4 - 1/2 inch "balls" are the protective hiding place for the nymph of a relatively harmless insect called a "spittlebug" (Philaenus sp.) which feeds on the plant's sap and uses the foam to hide itself from predators. Spittlebugs are easily rinsed off your plants with your garden hose.

Often in Spring, we find a Dill or Fennel plant in our garden loaded with aphids and their sticky mess. Aphids usually occur at low levels that are not very harmful to the plant - merely rinse them off with your garden hose and wash your picked herbs well before cooking with them. Insecticides are not generally recommended on herbs, since they are used for cooking. A weaker plant may become heavily infested - either pull and discard the plant, or leave it in your garden as a source of food (aphids) to attract ladybird beetles and other beneficial insects.

Landscape Plants

As the weather warms and days lengthen, adjust your irrigation timer to water more frequently. Be sure to run your system long enough to wet the top two feet of soil. Deep, infrequent watering is much better than a daily sprinkle.

Tree water use, desert types being the exception, increases rapidly during this period of leafing out and gradually higher air temperatures.

Allow your wildflowers to go to seed. They will produce a natural healthy feast for birds as well as reseeding themselves to come up again in your yard next year.

Make plans for Arbor Day, The Last Friday in April

Most woodpecker damage occurs during the period of breeding and territory establishment, February through June

Roses

Continue fertilizing established roses, liquid fertilizers can be added at 2 week intervals, follow the directions on the container.

Turf

Begin fertilizing Bermuda grass lawns during late April or early May. Follow the directions on the container.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds
Beans (Lima & Snap), Black eyed Peas, Carrots, Cucumbers, Jicama, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Okra, Green Onions, Peanuts, Radishes, Summer Squash, Sunflowers

Plant Transplants

Jerusalem Artichokes

Include edible and cut flowers in your vegetable garden. In addition to adding beauty they will attract beneficial insect pollinators which will increase your fruit set.

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Don't List . . .

Do not prune citrus except to remove dead or damaged wood and branches obstructing pathways, views, or structures.

Do not use pre-emergent herbicides in an area in which you intend to plant seeds.

Do not plant seeded Bermuda until the soil warms up in mid to late May.

go to top

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit drop
The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Low fruit set on deciduous trees (apples, pears, peaches, apricots pears)

May be the result of a mild winter with minimal chilling hours. Be sure to plant varieties with less than 400 hours of chilling required for fruit set.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

There are large bright red and black or all black bugs on my fruit

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Citrus leaf drop

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by slug, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Damage is Noticed on the Roots Cultural \ Environmental Questions

Low fruit set on deciduous trees (apples, pears, peaches, apricots pears)
May be the result of a mild winter with minimal chilling hours. Be sure to plant varieties with less than 400 hours of chilling required for fruit set.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Insect/Pest Questions

There are large bright red and black or all black bugs on my fruit

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by slug, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

There are hundreds of small gray bugs in the yard, some are even coming in the house

Disease Questions There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Faces from the past

Family Outing

At the Wild Animal Park!

They're leaving so soon!

Wife of the Artist after the Scottsdale Art Festival - surely we can fit one more thing in the truck!

What to do in a Desert Garden in March?

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for March
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.9 inches
Record: 4.9 inches (1941)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 75.5 degrees
Lowest High: 49 degrees (1915)
Record High: 100 degrees (1988)

Average Low: 48.8 degrees
Highest Low: 74 degrees (1986)
Record Low: 25 degrees (1966)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Avoid over watering and mowing when grass is wet to prevent the spread of fungal problems in winter lawns.

Winter lawns may require once to twice per week watering depending on the weather. DO NOT OVER WATER!

Vegetables

Prepare garden soil for Spring planting.

Plant Seeds

Beans (lima and snap), beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, jicama, melons (cantaloupe, muskmelon, watermelon), okra, green onions, peanuts, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

Plant Transplants

Artichokes (globe and Jerusalem), eggplant, peppers and tomatoes.

Roses

Continue fertilizing established roses with granular fertilizers once every 6 weeks. Remember to water the day before application and the day after. Apply 1/4 to 1/2 cup of Epsom salts.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Fertilize deciduous fruit trees with nitrogen when they leaf out.

Thin deciduous fruit to 6 inch spacing. The earlier this is done after fruit set, the more size response will be expected in fruit remaining on the tree.

Prune frost sensitive citrus until mid March, after they begin to leaf out with new spring growth. Wait until all chance of frost has past but allow time for re-growth to shade exposed bark, protecting it from sun scald as the days get longer and hotter.

Plant Citrus Trees - Young two to five year old trees transplant most successfully. Larger, older trees are more costly, harder to transplant without injury (to yourself and the tree), and suffer more from transplant shock. It will generally be three years after transplant before fruit production and that is the same whether you plant a 2 year old tree or a 10 year old tree. Go small!

Landscape Plants

Water at least once a month unless rains provide adequate moisture.

Control weeds while they are young, tender, and their roots are manageable, or before they sprout. Be sure to remove before they set seed. Remove London Rocket and other weeds in the mustard family now to prevent large populations of False Chinch bugs in April. pre-emergent herbicides containing Pendimethalin or Isoxaben can be used to control prostrate Spurge and other weeds.

Prune frost sensitive plants, such as bougainvillea, after they begin to leaf out with new spring growth.

Apply mulch around the base of plants to conserve moisture and prevent weeds.

If you have previously had a problem, apply around the base of agaves a pesticide labeled for use on grubs to kill the grubs of the Agave Weevil. Repeat application in June.

Make plans for Arbor Day.

Flowers

Plant bee balm (Monarda sp.), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), celosia (Celosia sp.), cosmos (Cosmos sp.), desert marigold (Baileyea multiradiata), English daisy (Bellis perennis), gilia (Gilia sp.), firewheel/indian blanket (Gaillardia), hollyhock (Alcea sp.), marigold (Tagetes sp.), Mexican hat (Ratibida columnifera), Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia), portulaca (Portulaca sp.), primrose (Primula sp.), safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), sage (Salvia sp.), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), sunflower (Helianthus sp.), sweet pea (Lathyrus sp.), verbena (Verbena sp.), wild hyssop (Agastache sp.) and zinnia (Zinnia sp.).

Herbs

Plant anise, basil, bay, caraway, catnip, chamomile, chives, curry, epazote, fennel, feverfew, French tarragon, garlic chives, germander, horehound, hyssop, lavender, lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rue, safflower, sage, salad burnet, santolina, savory (summer and winter), scented geraniums, tansy, thyme and yarrow.

Don't List . . .

Do not prune citrus except to remove dead or damaged wood and branches obstructing pathways, views, or structures.

Do not use pre-emergent herbicides in an area in which you intend to plant seeds.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit drop
The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Low fruit set on deciduous trees (apples, pears, peaches, apricots pears)

May be the result of a mild winter with minimal chilling hours. Be sure to plant varieties with less than 400 hours of chilling required for fruit set.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Citrus leaf drop

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Damage is Noticed on the RootsCultural / Environmental Questions

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Citrus leaf drop

Low fruit set on deciduous trees (apples, pears, peaches, apricots pears)

May be the result of a mild winter with minimal chilling hours. Be sure to plant varieties with less than 400 hours of chilling required for fruit set.

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Insect/Pest Questions

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

Mustard yellow paper wasps are out now

Disease QuestionsThere is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Hazards of Gardening

I got Roses for Valentine's Day. Here I am in front of the raised flower bed I planted this weekend.

The splint is for my newly broken wrist! After planting the new roses, I was pretty tired. I was backing up to admire my work and I tripped over a rake and fell, landing with all my weight on my right wrist. Very painful. That was Sunday afternoon and I tried ice, elevation and compression all night but it kept getting more painful so R. took me to the emergrncy room at 5AM Monday. They took Xrays. Yes it is a fracture and it goes to the joint and may require surgery. I'll know more tomorrow.

Meanwhile, I'm on pain meds and feeling better. Hope the roses like their new home!

Lemons as big as oranges .. no wait - BIGGER!

Oranges on the left. Meyer lemons on the right.

What to do in a Desert Garden in February?

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for February
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.7 inches
Record: 4.7 inches(1905)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 70.7 degrees
Lowest High: 46 degrees (1899, 1903)
Record High: 92 degrees (1921, 1986)

Average Low: 44.7 degrees
Highest Low: 65 degrees (1996)
Record Low: 24 degrees (1899, 1993)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Winter lawns may require once to twice per week watering depending on the weather.

After the first mowing, fertilize winter lawns with a high phosphate fertilizer like superphosphate, triple superphosphate, or a complete fertilizer that is 20% phosphorous or more by weight. Ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) is another option. Follow the application rates and directions on the label.

Identify and correct problems with winter laws quickly.

Vegetables

Prepare garden soil for Spring planting.

Plant Seeds

Beets, Bok Choy, Carrots, Chard, Collard Greens, Corn, Cucumbers, Leaf Lettuce, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon, Watermelon), Mustard, Green Onions, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Spinach, Summer Squash, Sunflowers, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Artichokes (Globe & Jerusalem), Asparagus, Chard, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Onion Sets, Peppers, Tomatoes

Roses

Finish pruning roses by the middle of the month.

Transplant bare root roses

Begin fertilizing established roses with granular fertilizers about the middle of the month. Remember to water the day before application and the day after.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Finish pruning deciduous fruit trees and grapes by the middle of the month.

Transplant bare root deciduous fruit trees. Select varieties which require less than 400 hours of chilling.

Fertilize deciduous fruit trees with nitrogen when they leaf out.

Prune frost sensitive citrus after it begins to leaf out with new spring growth.

Landscape Plants

Protect plants from frost damage if the temperature is projected to drop down in to the 20's for more than an hour.

Finish pruning nonnative deciduous shade trees, and grapes by the middle of the month.

Transplant bare root plants

Water at least once a month unless rains provide adequate moisture.

Control weeds while they are young, tender, and their roots are manageable, or before they sprout. Be sure to remove before they set seed. Remove London Rocket and other weeds in the mustard family now to prevent large populations of False Chinch bugs in April.

Winter watering schedules should be adjusted to about 1/3 of the summer frequency for deciduous and dormant plants, but water deeply each time. Growing flowers may require once to twice per week watering depending on the weather.

Prune frost sensitive plants like bougainvillea after they begin to leaf out with new spring growth.

Make plans for Arbor Day, April 25.

Don't List . . .

DO NOT prune frost sensitive plants, especially if they have been damaged by frost.

DO NOT fertilize frost sensitive plants.

DO NOT over water or over fertilize winter lawns as this will encourage rapid succulent growth which is vulnerable to fungal diseases.

DO NOT water turf at night. Moisture and cool temperatures invite fungal diseases.

DO NOT mow when turf is wet. By wounding the plant (mowing) while it is wet you increase the likelihood of fungal infection. In addition, you increase the likelihood of spreading the fungus on the tires of the mower and on your shoes

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

The stem end of citrus fruit is rotting after harvest

The blossom end of Navel oranges and occasionally tangelos are rotting.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves and stems are abnormally reddish or purple

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly.

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Damage is Noticed on the Roots Cultural \ Environmental Questions

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves and stems are abnormally reddish or purple

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Insect/Pest Questions

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

Brown and white moths on Palo Verde trees

Palo Verde buck moth adults are out. These brown and white moths will lay eggs that hatch into hairy caterpillars on Palo Verde trees. The hairs of the caterpillar are irritating to the skin and should not be touched. These native insects cause little harm to the tree and are kept under control by several beneficial insects. Control is generally not necessary.

Disease Questions

The blossom end of Navel oranges and occasionally tangelos are rotting.

The stem end of citrus fruit is rotting after harvest

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly.

Isn't it a bit early for this?

The backyard smells heavenly - one of my Meyer lemon trees (bushes) is blooming.

The just-planted Fuji Apple tree.

Lots of tangerines.

And I'm really worried about this nectarine which is already flowering! It never even lost all its leaves. Most of the fruit trees are leafing out and producing buds. It's been exceptionally warm.

Ready to plant

Had a Kinnow (#7 on the list), my first ever! Only two fruit this year but really really good and juicy and not seedy.

Tried the Moro blood orange (#3 on the list). Very red inside. The tree only produced one fruit this year but the tree looks healthy. A few months ago it fell partly over in high winds and we staked it.

We continue to have tons of Meyer lemons, exceptionally large and juicy this year. The thorns are especially vicious this year too! I gave some to a neighbor who sent it back in the form of yummy lemon curd.

Finally, last weekend we worked on the raised beds, lifting the in-line drip irrigation and adding store-bought potting soil - bags and bags of it. They are ready for planting and I have some six packs of veggies and flowers to set out. I even bought some tomatoes but it is really too early to set them out, it still might freeze. The last freeze date is typically near the end of February.

It's hard to believe it's January, we're having exceptionally warm, balmy weather. Of course it is pleasant but I'd prefer crisp days right now.

We're

More Taste Testing

Tried my first dwarf Honey (Murcott) Tangor - planted 2006. Only a few fruit. Very bumpy skin. Peels like a tangerine - milder flavor, sweet, very good. Very few seeds.

The Fairchild tangerine is half dead. The other half has lots of fruit. This is the best tasting year so far for this tree. Also I waited until the fruits had time to fully ripen. However, I'm tempted to remove this tree now that it is half dead!

Went to Baker Nursery today and ordered 24 bags of potting soil (48 cu ft!), a tree rose (Double Delight), an Arabian Jasmine and assorted veggies in 6-packs. They have already delivered it all. The potting soil is for my pots of course but mainly for the raised planters which have sunk quite a bit over the past year.

My hand is healing well, stitches removed last Friday. I'm actually developing the habit of wearing gloves to do the dishes and yardwork and I think I'll maintain it. It's a bit of a pain but my hands are not cracked an bleeding which is a big plus.

Baker's has the fruit tree order in but not yet available for sale. I'm looking at the list on their website and plotting what to buy. A pomegranite, an apple and maybe another fig. My fig tree is not doing well.

Meanwhile, I did finally clear out the planters and the melon vines to be ready for planting. Some of the deciduous fruit trees have lost their leaves but not all. We have visible frost on top of the soil in the raised planters.

What to do in a Desert Garden in January?

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for January
in Phoenix, Arizona


Rainfall:

Average: 0.6 inches
Record: 5.25 inches (1993)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 65.9 degrees
Lowest High: 39 degrees (1937)
Record High: 88 degrees (1971)

Average Low: 41.2 degrees
Highest Low: 61 degrees (1988)
Record Low: 16 degrees (1913)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

After the first mowing, fertilize winter lawns with a high phosphate fertilizer like superphosphate, triple superphosphate, or a complete fertilizer that is 20% phosphorous or more by weight. Ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) is another option. Follow the application rates and directions on the label.

Identify and correct problems with winter laws quickly.

Vegetables

Prepare garden soil for Spring planting.

Plant Seeds

Beets, Bok Choy, Carrots, Chard, Collard Greens, Lettuce, Leek, Mustard, Green Onions, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Rutabagas, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Artichokes (Globe & Jerusalem), Asparagus, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Chard, Kohlrabi, Lettuce

Roses

Prune roses. Attend pruning demonstrations put on by local Rose Societies, Garden Clubs, Nurseries and the Cooperative Extension Office

Transplant bare root roses

Fruit and Nut Trees

Prune deciduous fruit trees and grapes. Attend pruning demonstrations put on by local Rose Societies, Garden Clubs, Nurseries and the Cooperative Extension Office

Transplant bare root deciduous fruit trees. Select varieties which require less than 400 hours of chilling.

Landscape Plants

Protect plants from frost damage if the temperature is projected to drop down in to the 20's for more than an hour.

Prune nonnative deciduous shade trees Attend pruning demonstrations put on by local Rose Societies, Garden Clubs, Nurseries and the Cooperative Extension Office

Transplant bare root plants

Move living Christmas Trees outside to a shaded, cool location. Transplant into permanent location as soon as soil temperatures warm.

Water at least once a month unless rains provide adequate moisture.

Control weeds while they are young, tender, and their roots are manageable, or before they sprout. Be sure to remove before they set seed. Remove London Rocket and other weeds in the mustard family now to prevent large populations of False Chinch bugs in April.

Winter watering schedules should be adjusted to about 1/3 of the summer frequency for deciduous and dormant plants, but water deeply each time. Winter lawns and growing flowers may require once to twice per week watering depending on the weather.

Make plans for Arbor Day, the last friday in April.

Don't List . . .

DO NOT prune frost sensitive plants, especially if they have been damaged by frost.

DO NOT over water or over fertilize winter lawns as this will encourage rapid succulent growth which is vulnerable to fungal diseases.

DO NOT water turf at night when the temperatures are coolest as this fosters the growth of fungal diseases.

DO NOT mow when turf is wet. By wounding the plant (mowing) while it is wet you increase the likelihood of fungal infection. In addition, you increase the likelihood of spreading the fungus on the tires of the mower and on your shoes

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

The stem end of citrus fruit is rotting after harvest

The blossom end of Navel oranges and occasionally tangelos are rotting.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves and stems are abnormally reddish or purple

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by slugs, snails, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Damage is Noticed on the Roots Cultural \ Environmental Questions

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves and stems are abnormally reddish or purple

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Insect/Pest Questions

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Various beetles are emerging from firewood stored in homes, such as long-horned beetles or metallic wood borers.

Do not be overly concerned, they can not attack the dry, finished wood of a typical home. Simply vacuum them up.

Small gray flies periodically emerge from potted plants.

Disease Questions

The blossom end of Navel oranges and occasionally tangelos are rotting.

The stem end of citrus fruit is rotting after harvest

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Taste Test New Citrus

The citrus have been ripening on their for a while now. I did not want to rush to pick them. For many of the trees, this is the first harvest.

today I picked a
(# 10. on list) Clementine Tangerine - very good, a bit seedy, true tangerine flavor with loose skin
(# 11. on list) Orange – Trovita Orange - good flovor, a bit dry and seedy, thick skin, easy to peel.


Citrus - Left to Right
1.Lime – Std Thornless Mexican 2000
2.Blood Orange – Dwarf Sanguinelli 2000
3.Blood Orange – Std Moro 2006
4.Grapefruit – Std Ruby 2000
5.Orange – Std Arizona Sweet 2000
6.Tangerine - Dwarf Dancy 2006
7.Tangerine or Tangor x Mandarin according to Wikipedia - Std Kinnow 2006
8.Tangor – Dwarf Honey (Murcott) 2006
9.Lemon - Dwarf Meyer fall 2002
10.Tangerine – Std Clementine
11.Orange – Std Trovita (after the Minneola Tangelo died in the frost) 2007
12.Tangerine – Std Fairchild 2000
13.Tangor – Dwarf Temple 2006
14.Lemon – Dwarf Meyer fall 2002

What to do in a Desert Garden in December?

Here are some tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for December
in Phoenix, Arizona


Rainfall:

Average: 1.0 inches
Record: 4.0 inches (1967)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 66.2 degrees
Lowest High: 36 degrees (1898)
Record High: 87 degrees (1950)

Average Low: 41.8 degrees
Highest Low: 59 degrees (1949)
Record Low: 22 degrees (1900, 1911)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

After the first mowing, fertilize winter lawns with a high phosphate fertilizer like superphosphate, triple superphosphate, or a complete fertilizer that is 20% phosphorous or more by weight. Ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) is another option. Follow the application rates and directions on the label.

Identify and correct problems with winter laws quickly.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds
Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Collard Greens, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), Mustard, Green Onions, Peas, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Asparagus, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf)

Watch for insect and pest problems, identify and manage early to prevent damage.

Roses

New rose catalogs come out and bare root roses are available at nurseries from the middle to the end of the month.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Be prepared to protect citrus from early winter frosts

Wrap the trunks of young citrus and other cold-tender trees with cloth, cardboard or several layers of newspaper (NOT plastic) to protect them from the winter freeze. Leave them wrapped until the threat of frost has passed in the Spring.

Peel color is not a good indicator of maturity or taste in citrus. Give it the taste test. If it is not sweet enough for your liking, leave it on the tree. Up to a point, the longer the fruit is left on the tree the sweeter.

Deciduous fruit trees must receive sufficient chilling for their flower buds to develop properly. Different varieties have different "chilling requirements." In order to have good fruit set, even in milder winters, choose a variety that requires less than 400 hours of chilling.

Landscape Plants

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Reduce irrigation to one deep watering of the root zone per month for the winter

Plant winter hardy trees, shrubs and vines

Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied from October through early December for winter annual weed control. Follow the package directions carefully for best results. DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides where you will be planting seeds this season.

Be prepared for early winter frost

Don't List . . .
DO NOT increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering, watering at night, over fertilizing, or mowing when the grass is wet.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rots. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, making the rind less supple and less resilient to stretching and growing, thus as the fruit starts to enlarge it splits. There is nothing to be done for this season, ensure adequate irrigation next summer.

Small fruit size

This may be related to a heavy fruit set or weather. Lack of normal rainfall during the midsummer period can have a direct influence on fruit size. Citrus fruit growth is always greater as a response to rain vs. a similar amount of irrigation water.
Brown stains that are obvious in some pecan meats
This is probably the result of stink bug feeding earlier in the season. No bitter taste effect results from this damage.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

There are thousands of little black dots on the leaves of my acacia tree.

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, making the rind less supple and less resilient to stretching and growing, thus as the fruit starts to enlarge it splits. There is nothing to be done for this season, ensure adequate irrigation next summer.

Small fruit size

This may be related to a heavy fruit set or weather. Lack of normal rainfall during the midsummer period can have a direct influence on fruit size. Citrus fruit growth is always greater as a response to rain vs. a similar amount of irrigation water.
The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Insect/Pest Questions

There are thousands of little black dots on the leaves of my acacia tree.

Brown stains that are obvious in some pecan meats

This is probably a result of stink bugs feeding earlier in the season. No bitter taste effect results from this damage.

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Disease Questions

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

What to do in a Desert Garden in November?

Here are some tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for November
in Phoenix, Arizona


Rainfall:

Average: 0.7 inches
Record: 3.6 inches (1905)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 74.9 degrees
Lowest High: 40 degrees (1919)
Record High: 96 degrees (1924)

Average Low: 48.9 degrees
Highest Low: 71 degrees (1988)
Record Low: 27 degrees (1931)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

For a green winter lawn, overseed established Bermuda grass lawns from mid October through mid November.

After the first mowing, fertilize winter lawns with a high phosphate fertilizer like superphosphate, triple superphosphate, or a complete fertilizer that is 20% phosphorous or more by weight. Ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) is another option. Follow the application rates and directions on the label.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds
Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Chard, Collard Greens, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), Mustard, Onions (Bulb & Green), Peas, Radishes, Rutabagas, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Asparagus, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Chard, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf)

Watch for insect and pest problems, identify and manage early to prevent damage.

Roses

End the years fertilization this month

Plant container roses from mail-order catalogs, old garden roses in particular.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Be prepared to protect citrus from early winter frosts

Landscape Plants

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Water applications should be greatly reduced for the winter

Plant winter hardy trees, shrubs and vines

Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied from October through early December for winter annual weed control. Follow the package directions carefully for best results. DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides where you will be planting seeds this season.

Be prepared for early winter frost

Don't List . . .

Do not increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering or watering at night.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rots. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, making the rind less supple and less resilient to stretching and growing, thus as the fruit starts to enlarge it splits. There is nothing to be done for this season, ensure adequate irrigation next summer.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by slugs, snails, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, making the rind less supple and less resilient to stretching and growing, thus as the fruit starts to enlarge it splits. There is nothing to be done for this season, ensure adequate irrigation next summer.

Insect/Pest Questions

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by slugs, snails, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Disease Questions

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

What to do in a Desert Garden in October?

Here are some tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for October
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.7 inches
Record: 4.4 inches (1972)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 88.1 degrees
Lowest High: 56 degrees (1959)
Record High: 107 degrees (1980)

Average Low: 60.8 degrees
Highest Low: 82 degrees (1987)
Record Low: 34 degrees (1900,1911)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

A light application of potassium on Bermuda in the fall will enable it to come out of dormancy in the spring with greater vigor.

Overseed established Bermuda grass lawns from mid October through mid November for a green winter lawn.

Vegetables

Prepare bed for fall planting

Plant Seeds

Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Collard Greens, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), Leeks, Mustard, Onions (Bulb & Green), Parsnips, Peas, Radishes, Rutabagas, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Garlic, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf)

Roses

Resume full fertilizing of established roses as the weather cools

Watch for second season of powdery mildew

Fruit and Nut Trees

Late summer application of nitrogen fertilizer probably helps fruit sizing. This is more significant for fall ripening (navels & tangerines) than spring ripening (Grapefruit and Valencia orange) varieties.

Landscape Plants

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

It is too late to fertilize freeze-sensitive plants such as citrus, hibiscus, bougainvillea, etc. However, early fall fertilization can help the recovery of summer-weary trees, shrubs, vines, ground covers, lawns and flowers. Nitrogen fertilizer should be adequate. Follow with good deep irrigation.

Cut back watering frequencies as plant needs decrease with shortening, cooling days

Plant winter hardy trees, shrubs and vines

Plant wild flowers

Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied from October through early December for winter annual weed control. Follow the package directions carefully for best results. DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides where you will be planting seeds this season.

Don't List . . .

Do not dethatch Bermuda in the Fall. Dethatching should be done in the summer when the grass is actively growing.

Do not increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering or watering at night.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rots. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, making the rind less supple and less resilient to stretching and growing, thus as the fruit starts to enlarge it splits. There is nothing to be done for this season, ensure adequate irrigation next summer.

Pecans Drop before peak harvest time

This is the trees normal shedding of nuts that are damaged or underdeveloped. No management required.

Citrus turning yellow and droping before time. Brown sunken spot on the blossom end (as opposed to the stem end) of the fruit.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Agave collapsed into a smelly, putrid, mess practically overnight

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, hornwormsor birds.

Pecan Aphid infestations

- Most of the damage is not to the tree but to everything under the tree which gets coated with a sticky covering. There is no good control, just hose off the sidewalks, lawn furniture, etc. under the trees.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

The bark is discolored and cracking on the South or West side of the trunk

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

There are large, white grubs in the soil around my roots and actually in the roots.

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, making the rind less supple and less resilient to stretching and growing, thus as the fruit starts to enlarge it splits. There is nothing to be done for this season, ensure adequate irrigation next summer.

Pecans Drop before peak harvest time

This is the trees normal shedding of nuts that are damaged or underdeveloped. No management required.

The bark is discolored and cracking on the South or West side of the trunk

Insect/Pest Questions

Agave collapsed into a smelly, putrid, mess practically overnight

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

Pecan Aphid infestations

- Most of the damage is not to the tree but to everything under the tree which gets coated with a sticky covering. There is no good control, just hose off the sidewalks, lawn furniture, etc. under the trees.

Disease Questions

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

RECIPE: Vertical Roasted Chicken

I've been meaning to post a few recipes, so here's my first one. We were vegetarians for years so I am re-discovering how to cook with meat and being much pickier than I used to be. Also I have a little more time after work on some days so I can take a while if results warrant it.

Roasted chicken is hardly unique but this recipe combines the features that I currently like best. I prefer minimal handling and cutting (so I avoid the flattened chicken that I used to make) and I like the skin to be crisp but not burnt, hence the use of a vertical roaster to raise the chicken and expose most of the skin and also a high temperature but not too high. Also I don't like to fuss so I keep the temperature the same throughout the process. Perhaps I should add that we prefer chicken to be completely done, not a bit rare in spots. Also I want to avoid non-stick pans and implements. But I still want it all to be easy to clean.

I use the NorPro Stainless Steel Roaster which has a small pan at the bottom to catch most if not all of the juices. This is a cheap device I bought at Amazon. I place the device inside a shallow stainless steel baking pan. These are both very easy to clean and has the benefit of capturing the juices well. I use a stainless steel baster to remove the juices from the little pan at the end of cooking. They can be used as the base of a sauce for this or future dinners. I have two roasters and can easily fit two chickens in my oven at once, but usually I cook one at a time.

This recipe is basically a variant of one I found on the Splendid Table website, with quite a few adjustments to meet my evolving specs. I'm sorry for all the steps, I'm just trying to be fairly complete. It's very easy. Also note, I think you could use any non-vertical roasting rack and get fairly similar results - the point is to raise the bird up off it's juices. I like the vertical roaster because it collects the juices nicely and seems to cook a bit quicker and produces maximal crispy skin.

Vertical Roasted Chicken

• Garlic cloves, onion slices, lemon/orange/fruit slices and/or fresh herbs (completely optional)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper or hot sauce (also optional but I think you really need salt - I use Diamond brand kosher salt)
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil or other delicious fat (I like to use duck fat when I have it, or bacon fat)
• 3-5 pound chicken (a humanely raised chicken please!)
  

1. Remove the oven's middle rack(s). Put the bottom rack at the lowest level so there is room for the upright chicken and vertical rack.
2. Preheat to 400 (if you have a convection oven use 400, otherwise try 425 or 450).
3. Clean, rinse and dry the chicken, removing innards and extra fat as needed. I like to freeze these for future use. I separate out the livers and add to a jar of chicken livers that I am saving until I get enough to male something special. It is almost impossible to find organic chicken livers locally.
4. Bend the wings to tuck the wing tips under the wings, forming a triangle with the wings.
5. Rub the oil or fat all over the chicken and then sprinkle or rub with salt and optional pepper or hot sauce.
6. (OPTIONAL) You can push thin lemon slices and/or chopped herbs under the skin in strategic places but I usually skip this step.
7. Set the Vertical Roaster in a shallow baking pan. Push the chicken down onto the wire tower so the top of the vertical roaster comes up to or through the neck cavity. Rest the bird's legs on the raised edge at the bottom of the vertical roaster to avoid having them soak in the juices. You can add a few tablespoons of liquid to the little pan at the bottom of the roaster. I used to do this but once I forgot and it was fine and did not smoke too much.
   
8. (OPTIONAL) Push herbs or other flavoring into the cavity along with the ribs of the vertical roaster. This will only have a minor affect on the final product but it is a nice touch and enhances the juices.
9. Place the baking pan with the chicken on it's roaster into the preheated oven on the center of the bottom rack. Remember that you have to remove the other racks, preferably before they get hot.Bake/roast at 400 degrees, using the convection setting for approximately 10 minutes per pound plus 20 minutes if the chicken is cold from the refrigerator (or plus 10 minutes if the chicken has been out for a half hour - not necessarily recommended practice from a food safety point of view).
10. When the allotted time is up (or maybe 10 minutes in advance) check to see if it is done. Either use an instant read thermometer or prick the leg at the thigh joint to see if the juices run clear, or just use your judgment based on how it feels and moves when you touch it.
11. When done, remove it from the oven and turn off the oven.
12. Let bird rest 10 minutes at room temperature, still on the rack, then serve. You can simply leave it on the roaster and cut away the legs, thighs and wings and then (optionally) the wish bone. Be careful when you cut the skin at first, especially at the thigh, because hot juices may rapidly flow out. Then cut away the breast meat or slice it off. Don't forget to use or save the delicious juices, possibly removing them from the brimming pan with a baster. Save the bones and scraps for soup - I collect them in my freezer until I'm ready to make broth.
13. If some guests don't eat chicken skin, you might want to remove it before serving, and share it amongst those who appreciate it. You can even crisp it under the broiler if needed.
14. Timing notes - Not counting the ten minute rest at the end, a 4 pound chicken takes about an hour (4 times 10 plus 20 minutes) and a five pound chicken takes about an hour and ten minutes. So it's not super fast, but worth the wait. And once it's in the oven you don't have any fussing over it until the end.
    

I'm Back!

I have not been away except mentally. And I literally was staying out of the back garden for a while now.

I was focused on planning a family reunion among other things (it went well!)

The plants in the raised beds had all died in July. We had huge storms and lots of rain and it has been all we could do to just keep the weeds in the gravel areas somewhat in control and pick melons before they become too ripe. It was too hot and miserable. And I was annoyed with my helper (otherwise known as my dear, sweet husband) for destroying my Mexican Oregano instead of weeds. This is the same guy that destroyed a beautiful hibiscus a while back. At least the herb plant sort of looked like a weed.

That's a picture of plants that I bought about 6 weeks ago. And never planted. Sigh.

Whine, whine, whine! I'm over it already.

The days are shorter now and it's cooler in the mornings at least. Of course I've started back to work so I don't have many mornings. But I've been kicking myself to get going on the garden again. The first thing I did was get a professional landscape company to estimate the cost of bi-weekly maintenance. This is just on-going clean-up - pulling weeds and raking and a little pruning. I have hired a company to start next week.

They will plant and fix my irrigation (for a fee) too. This is great, because planting in the ground is really difficult here, the ground is so rocky. I do want to add some more desert plants and trees and digging holes is really difficult here. That's what I love about my raised beds.

So today I finally went back out and surveyed the garden and rounded up the ripe melons. I had not picked melons for 2 weeks and in the mean time 3 melons become overripe and started to rot on the vine. I picked several ripe melons and consigned the overripe ones to the compost heap. I ended up eating quite a bit of watermelon for breakfast. At least it was cool inside - eating warm watermelon seems too weird to me. I sprinkle melons with a little kosher salt. My husband prefers sugar, which seems practically sacrilegious to me. I just touched the knife to the watermelon and it cracked open, perfectly ripe and wonderful.

The melons seem to have been hybridizing at random. We have many exotic appearing melons which I definitely did not plant. Little smooth-skinned cantaloupes. Huge dark green warty things that taste like watered down cantaloupes. Misshapen triangular honeydews.

Apparently I need to plant the different types further apart to lessen commingling. A few of the melon plants seem to have stopped growing. Perhaps these are ones with over-ripened fruits. But others are continuing to produce flowers and set melons at an almost alarming rate. I suppose the shorter days will soon signal a decline in production. But it is still hot and sunny during the day.

Here is one of the small smooth melons together with a more normal cantaloupe. Next year I think I'll try to just plant small melons. The huge ones are overwhelming and hard to give away.



We also have a nice crop of Japanese eggplant. The eggplants and the okra were the only surviving plant from my spring planting, aside from herbs in containers which did very well indeed. I'm going to harvest the remaining basil as I will have a steady supply coming in from my CSA share which started this week.

I think another one of the peach trees has given up. The nectarine trees, the plum and the Aprium are looking very healthy. The fig limps along. One of the storms knocked over several of the small trees so we have them staked. They did not fall down but they leaned severely.

The next thing I have to do is change the irrigation, now that the hottest part of the summer is over. I have a spreadsheet where I record the settings and what worked and what did not work. I ended up setting the mini-sprinklers on the containers to briefly spray three times a day and this made all the difference. Incredible amounts of basil and other herbs survived all summer.

What to do in a Desert Garden in September?

Here are some tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for September
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.86 inches
Record: 5.5inches (1939)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 98.3 degrees
Lowest High: 66 degrees (1895)
Record High: 116 degrees (1950)

Average Low: 72.8 degrees
Highest Low: 90 degrees (1982, 1983)
Record Low: 47 degrees (1895, 1965)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Fertilize Bermuda-grass lawns with Nitrogen each month beginning late April or early May according to the directions on the package.

Apply Iron each month according to the directions on the package.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

To remove a Bermuda lawn

• Water and fertilize the grass to ensure that it is actively growing
• Apply a herbicide with glyphosate according to the directions on the package
• The grass will take in the herbicide throughout the entire root system, thus killing the plant rather than just knocking it back
• After a few days water again
• Reapply the herbicide to any of the turf that regrows
• Continue this cycle (may take three or more times) of fostering growth and applying herbicide until the grass is completely killed

Vegetables

Solarize garden soil: Prepare bed for fall planting, irrigate and then cover with clear plastic for six weeks. This will kill or drive out many of the soil pathogens.

Prepare bed for fall planting

Plant Seeds

Snap Beans, Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Collard Greens, Cucumbers, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), Leeks, Mustard, Green Onions, Peas, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Lettuce (Head & Leaf)

Roses

Resume full fertilizing of established roses as the weather cools

Toward the end of August and into September add an iron supplement if roses show yellowing from iron deficiency

Fruit and Nut Trees

Late summer application of nitrogen fertilizer probably helps fruit sizing. This is more significant for fall ripening (navels & tangerines) than spring ripening (Grapefruit and Valencia orange) varieties.

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Increase water application as the weather warms.

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Native and imported heat tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall.

Transplant palms in the heat of the summer for best results

Protect newly transplanted trees from heavy winds and dust storms by staking carefully

Late August or early September fertilization will benefit most plants struggling to have a flush of growth before slowing down for the winter. The growth put on before dormancy will store more energy during the winter that will be available to the plant when it pushes growth in the spring.

Don't List . . .

Do not expose citrus and other sun sensitive plants to sunburn by pruning during the summer

Do not increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering or watering at night.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rot. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions during September
in the Low Desert

Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs,cabbage loopers, or birds.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There are tiny little white flies everywhere!

Agave collapsed into a smelly, putrid, mess practically overnight

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

The bark is discolored on the South or West side of the trunk

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer.

The bark is discolored on the South or West side of the trunk

Insect/Pest Questions

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There are tiny little white flies everywhere!

Agave collapsed into a smelly, putrid, mess practically overnight

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

Disease Questions

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Rain, Weeds and the Neighbors Lose a Fig

We've had a lot of rain. Locally it's known as the monsoon season, but having lived in Thailand and India, I can say that it's nothing like a real monsoon.

It's enough rain for weeds to thrive and attempt to take over my yard. Fortunately the weeds are not in the orchard or the raised beds, not yet anyway. My husband and I have been risking heat prostration to get the weeds under control. Luckily the ground is soft from all the rain.

Earlier in my battle against the weeds, I had purchased a tool known as "Grampa's Weeder" which had proved useless in our rock hard soil. But it works perfectly with the ground damp from the rain. You center it over a weed that has a carrot-like root, press down, then lever out the root - all from a standing position.

On a foray out, I discovered that a neighbor's fig tree has fallen over. This is not the fig tree that we have been raiding - that one is MUCH larger - but it is the same variety. I had noticed previously that it had poles seeming to help prop it up and I guess the storm did it in. We have had lots of wind and limbs and even whole trees fell down all over town. It looks like the fig tree may have have circling roots.

The yellow figs were not quite ripe.

What to do in a Desert Garden in August?

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month
from the University of Arizona's College of Agriculture Maricopa
County Extension website.
There's also a lot of other helpful information and
FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the
low desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for August
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 1.0 inches
Record: 5.4 inches (1951)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 103.7 degrees
Lowest High: 73 degrees (1951)
Record High: 116 degrees (1972, 1975)

Average Low: 79.2 degrees
Highest Low: 92 degrees (1995)
Record Low: 58 degrees (1917)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Plant Bermuda lawns during the active growing season, May through August.

Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns each month beginning late April or early May with nitrogen according to the directions on the package.

Apply Iron one per month according to the directions on the package.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns.

Raise the mowing height to 2.5 to 3 inches during the warmer months.

Once every two or three years dethatch Bermuda lawns if necessary. Only dethatch during the active growing season, May through August. This enables the turf to quickly recover.

To remove a Bermuda lawn:

• Water and fertilize the grass to ensure that it is actively growing
• Apply a herbicide with glyphosate according to the directions on the package
• The grass will take in the herbicide throughout the entire root system, thus killing the plant rather than just knocking it back
• After a few days water again
• Reapply the herbicide to any of the turf that regrows
• Continue this cycle (may take three or more times) of fostering growth and applying herbicide until the grass is completely killed

Vegetables

Solarize garden soil: Prepare bed for fall planting, irrigate and then cover with clear plastic for six weeks. This will kill or drive out many of the soil pathogens.

Prepare bed for fall planting

Plant Seeds

Snap Beans, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Collard Greens, Corn, Cucumbers, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf) Leeks, Mustard, Green Onions, Summer Squash

Plant Transplants

Tomatoes

Roses

Cut back on fertilizing established roses to encourage plants to slow down for the hot summer

Water deeply as temperatures climb

Hose off plants in the early morning to increase humidity and control spider mites

Toward the end of August and into September add an iron supplement if roses show yellowing from iron deficiency

Fruit and Nut Trees

Late summer application of nitrogen fertilizer probably helps fruit sizing. This is more significant for fall ripening (navels & tangerines) than spring ripening (Grapefruit and Valencia orange) varieties.

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Increase water application as the weather warms. Pay attention to irrigation needs of plants.

Apply mulch to the ground around the base of heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Native and imported heat tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall.

Transplant palms in the heat of the summer for best results

Protect newly transplanted trees from heavy winds and dust storms by staking carefully

Late August or early September fertilization will benefit most plants struggling to have a flush of growth before slowing down for the winter. The growth put on before dormancy will store more energy during the winter that will be available to the plant when it pushes growth in the spring.

Don't List . . .

Do not expose citrus and other sun sensitive plants to sunburn by pruning during the summer

Do not increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering or watering at night.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rots. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop

Seasonal Leaf drop is normal intensified by hot, dry weather

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

The bark is discolored on the South or West side of the trunk

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer.

Leaf Drop

Seasonal Leaf drop is normal intensified by hot, dry weather

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

The bark is discolored on the South or West side of the trunk

Insect/Pest Questions

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots



What are those things that look like roaches on steroids?

There are tiny little white flies everywhere!

What is making that incredibly loud noise?

Disease Questions

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Yes, it rains in the Desert

The desert plants are happy after all the rain. The ocotillo cactus has even leafed out again.

Figs!

I've been away on a trip to the Midwest. Before I left, we had had a brutal hot spell that killed most of my plants. Then we had rain, lots of rain with standing puddles in the back yard. When I got back from the trip my husband had discovered that the fig tree in a neighbor's yard had started to ripen. Meanwhile our own fig tree is not doing well. I planted a Mission fig because that's my favorite for eating but as I wander around the old neighborhoods in Phoenix I am realizing that all the old fig trees that I see are yellow figs. Here's some we picked, next to the flowers from the last CSA share until fall.

These figs are delicious when really really ripe. They are still mostly green but yellow on the bottom and very soft when they are ready to eat. Naturally the local birds do their best to get to them first but there are so many that there are plenty to share. The tree is about 40 feet high and so far we are just picking those we can reach by standing on the ground. Luckily they are not ripening all at once. I think these are the same kind of fig that I knew as a child in Fig Newtons.

Here is a shot of the garden as it looks now, after removing the dead plants. The basil in pots in the shade of our elm tree is doing well. When we had the super-hot weather, all the melons ripened at once, regardless of size, but now another crop of melons is forming. The melon plant in the background has two watermelons forming on it. I was surprised when the zucchini died but I think some shade would have protected it. The eggplants all ripened at once as well and the plants are still alive but not flowering again. The okra seems happy with the weather, especially now that it is more humid. It's time to start thinking of fall planting and maybe starting some seeds inside.