Season to Taste

Roses in a Desert Garden

2009-07-27T12:05:00.002-07:00

Well, this blog has been semi-abandoned for some time. I've had physical problems (broken wrist), computer problems (still unresolved - I'm writing this on on old clunker), irrigation problems, and camera problems...

But I was cleaning house and came across my notes on my rose garden and wanted to capture them somewhere accessible.

My goal was to have a lot of easy to grow, scented roses in a bed that draws the eye from inside the house. I dedicated the middle bed to flowers.

I chose the roses by researching scented roses that grow well in extreme heat (the blast furnace). The info provide by Tucson Rosarians at http://www.tucsonrose.org/ was helpful as well as that from the Arizona West Valley Rose Society http://www.westvalleyrose.org
Unfortunately the West Valley site no longer has the fragrant rose list posted. I made a list of roses that I'd like to try and went off to Baker's Nursery to see what was available. Fortunately this was just after the bareroot roses had arrived at Baker so there was a wide variety available.

I planted a tall standard Double Delight rose tree in the middle of the bed.

Double Delight has long been my favorite rose. It has been a little difficult to dead head this rose since it is almost out of reach. Creamy white in the center, red outside. Wonderful strong scent.

Left to Right (as seen from the house) in the back of the bed:

Mr. Lincoln - beautiful clear red, heavily scented. It is a little stingy with blooms.
Jardins de Bagatelle - pale pink, blooms in clusters. Lovely scent. Often looks a bit ragged in the heat.
Lemon Zest - lots of small yellow blooms that turn anunattractive brown and hang on the plant. To me the scent is very faint. I may remove this one.
New Zealand - Pink, undistinquished. Mildly scented (to me).

Right to Left (as seen from the house) in the front of the bed:

California Dreamin' - This is like a Double Delight but with more vivid colorong - and not nearly as attractive. Light scent. Not a good choice. This rose is a new variety taht was recommended by Sunset Magazine. I will definitely remove this one.
Grenada - This was a surprise to me. I was not sure I'd like it as the description sounded garish. It is multi-colored. Each petal is gold inside, pink and peach in the middle and red on the edges. Not only to I find it beautiful, I also love the scent. I may plant more of this variety.
Child's Play - This is a miniature rose and I beieve it is the only scented miniature rose. Lots of small white bloooms with pink edges. I find that the scent is very faint. It might be nice in a border. I'll probably remove or at least move this one.
Secret - Another bi-color rose. Secret is wite with delicate pink edges, almost picotee in effect. Lovely scent. Bloomed first.
Scentimental - A striped rose - deep red with white stripes and splashes. Very attractive but the scent is rather faint. This is a floribunda rosa and the bush is bigger than the rest.

I have another Double Delight in a large pot in a partially shaded area just out my back door. In front of the house I have a new Don Juan, a nicely scented red rose. It's supposed to be a climber but has not had time to put on length yet. In the front courtyard we have two Lady Bank's roses, loosely trained in an arch over a window. These are about seven years old and now have tons of fragrant white bloom in late March. It is once blooming but very easy to grow and looks magnificent when it does bloom.

In addition to the rose, I also planted sweet allysum and deep purple pansies which shaded the soil and made for drammatic contrasts. So far the roses have been very healthy and shrugged off an early case of mildew. They did attract a lot of ants. A month or so ago I stopped fertilizing and dead-heading them and plan to resume in late August. However I do have neightbrs with beautiful roses all summer so it's possible. I just don't enjoy spending time outdoors in the hottest weather.

What to do in a Desert Garden in July?

2009-07-01T01:00:00.001-07:00

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for July
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.9 inches
Record: 6.5 inches (1911)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 105.9 degrees
Lowest High: 79 degrees (1911)
Record High: 121 degrees (1995)

Average Low: 81 degrees
Highest Low: 93 degrees (1989)
Record Low: 63 degrees (1912)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns each month beginning late April or early May with 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.

Apply six ounces of Iron per 1,000 square feet per month.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

Once every two or three years dethatch Bermuda lawns if necessary. Only dethatch during the active growing season, May through August. This enables the turf to quickly recover.

Vegetables

Beans (Pinto& Snap), Corn, Armenian Cucumbers, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Pumpkins, Winter Squash, Sunflowers

Plant Transplants

Peppers, Tomatoes

Place shade cloth over tomatoes.

Roses

Water deeply as temperatures climb

Hose off plants in the early morning to increase humidity and control spider mites

Fruit and Nut Trees

Cover fruit trees to protect from birds

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Prune palms when flower spathes show or delay pruning until after the palm has finished flowering to prevent infestation of Palm Flower caterpillars. If palms are pruned in the spring, leave the top five rows of peels so the caterpillars have a place to hide.

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Native and imported heat tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall.

Transplant palms in the heat of the summer for best results

Protect newly transplanted trees from heavy winds and dust storms by staking carefully

Don't List . . .

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Hot air and dry temperatures cause the blooms to drop off and the pollen to dry up. The pollen of many vegetables, including tomatoes is not viable once the temperatures get over 90 degrees. Provide shade. Nurse the plants through the summer and they will begin producing again in the fall. Or pull them out and plant new ones in the late summer for fall production.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Vegetables are not setting fruit

Africanized honey bees

bees have been killed by mites

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop

Seasonal Leaf drop is normal intensified by hot, dry weather

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop

Seasonal Leaf drop is normal intensified by hot, dry weather

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Insect/Pest Questions

Africanized honey bees

bees have been killed by mites

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

What are those things that look like roaches on steroids?

There are tiny little white flies everywhere!

What is making that incredibly loud noise?

Disease Questions There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Onward and update - June 1 update

2009-06-01T07:49:00.000-07:00

It seems a little late to advise planting melon seeds now (see previous post)! But maybe there's hope for my puny melon plants. Only the cucumber and the honeydews have really taken off. Lots of bloom but no fruit set so far.

The Early Girl and cherry tomatoes are at peak harvest. The yellow pear tomatoes are just starting to ripen. They are cute but a little bland for my taste.

Japanese eggplant and zucchini for picking every day. There's good looking chard too but somehow I avoid it right now. I'm letting the last few artichokes stay on the plant. They are small and I do like the blossoms when they mature.

I removed the Italian (flat) parsley but the curly parsley and the basil is doing well. The peppers continue to languish.

I picked the first butternut squash this week. However, I was informed that usually people leave them on the vine until the whole plant withers. This will result in a deeper flavor and harder shell. They are called winter squash because the hard shell makes them keep well through the winter! I did not know that before.

We did have a very few nectarines and aprium, tasty but not enough. The second peach tree is starting to ripen. We just picked the last grapefruit - it is still not as good as the others in the neighborhood and I am thinking of removing it.

We did remove the giant lime tree and it is strange to have that pocket of sunlight in the orchard. Maybe I'll plant big flowers like hollyhocks and sunflowers there next year.

What to do in a Desert Garden in June?

2009-06-01T01:00:00.002-07:00

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for June
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.1 inches
Record: 1.7 inches (1972)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 103.5 degrees
Lowest High: 68 degrees (1899)
Record High: 122 degrees (1990)

Average Low: 72.9 degrees
Highest Low: 93 degrees (1990)
Record Low: 49 degrees (1908)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns with Nitrogen each month beginning late April or early May according to the directions on the fertilizer package.

Apply Iron one a month according to the directions on the fertilizer package.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

Once every two or three years dethatch Bermuda lawns if necessary. Only dethatch during the active growing season, May through August. This enables the turf to quickly recover.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds

Armenian Cucumbers, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Sunflowers

Plant Transplants

Sweet Potatoes

Roses

Water deeply as temperatures climb

Hose off plants in the early morning to increase humidity and control spider mites

Fruit and Nut Trees

Cover fruit trees with netting to protect from birds

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Native and imported heat tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall.

Transplant palms in the heat of the summer for best results.

If you have previously had a problem, apply around the base of Agaves a pesticide labeled for use on grubs in order to kill the grubs of the Agave Weevil.

Don't List . . .

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Tomato Bloom Drop and failure to set fruit

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Vegetables are not setting fruit

Many of our helpful European honey bees have been annihilated by people trying to protect themselves from Africanized honey bees. In addition, many bees have been killed by mites. As a result they are not available to assist with pollination. Squash, melons, cucumbers and other vegetables that have separate male and female flowers will benefit from hand pollination. Early in the morning use a cotton swab to take pollen from the male flower and place it female flower.

The pollen of many vegetables is not viable in high temperatures so they do not set fruit in the summer.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

Leaves of my squash, pumpkin, cucumber, cantaloupe and/or watermelon wilt, turn black and die. Sometimes an entire plant or section of a plant dies while nearby plants remain healthy.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of some of the newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. Unless it is extreme, or there are additional symptoms there is probably no cause for concern.

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Insect/Pest Questions

Africanized honey bees

bees have been killed by mites

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

There are light green and brownish black bugs feeding on my squash, pumpkins, cantaloupe, cucumber and/or watermelons.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

Disease QuestionsThere is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

What to do in a Desert Garden in May?

2009-05-01T01:00:00.000-07:00

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for May
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.1 inches
Record: 1.3 inches (1930)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 93.6 degrees
Lowest High: 54 degrees (1915)
Record High: 114 degrees (1910)

Average Low: 63.9 degrees
Highest Low: 86 degrees (1983)
Record Low: 39 degrees (1899)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns each month beginning late April or early May with nitrogen according to the directions on the package.

Apply Iron each month according to the directions on the package.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

Once every two or three years dethatch Bermuda lawns if necessary. Only dethatch during the active growing season, May through August. This enables the turf to quickly recover.

Vegetables

Black eyed Peas, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Okra, Sunflowers

Plant Transplants

Jerusalem Artichokes, Sweet Potatoes

Place shade cloth over tomatoes.

Roses

Continue fertilizing established roses, liquid fertilizers can be added at 2 week intervals, follow the directions on the container.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Pick early-maturing deciduous fruit varieties, which are particularly prone to bird damage, before full maturity. Ripened at room temperature to lessen the bird peck loss.

Cover fruit trees to protect from birds

Give special attention to watering deciduous fruit trees, provide adequate soil moisture for fruit sizing in the late April and May period.

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Tree water use, desert types being the exception, increases rapidly during this period of leafing out and gradually higher air temperatures.

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation. Be sure to keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent pest and disease problems.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Don't List . . .

Do not use pre-emergent herbicides in an area in which you intend to plant seeds.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

There are large bright red and black or all black bugs on my fruit

Vegetables are not setting fruit

Africanized honey bees

bees have been killed by mites

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Damage is Noticed on the Roots Cultural / Environmental Questions

Tomatoes and or Peppers have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of some of the newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. Unless it is extreme, or there are additional symptoms there is probably no cause for concern.

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Insect/Pest Questions

There are large bright red and black or all black bugs on my fruit

Vegetables are not setting fruit

Africanized honey bees

bees have been killed by mites

Leaves of vegetables being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

There are hundreds of small gray bugs in the yard, some are even coming in the house

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

How do I get rid of Black Widow Spiders?

Disease Questions There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Got Fruit?

2009-04-22T15:09:00.001-07:00

We put up netting - the peaches are getting ripe.

The new yellow fig tree is very happy.

The roses are blooming like crazy. If only I could smell them! Can't wait till my cold is gone.

No Fooling

2009-04-01T15:05:00.000-07:00

Garden update for April 1, 2009.

What to do in a Desert Garden in April?

2009-04-01T01:00:00.001-07:00

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for April in Phoenix, Arizona

Rainfall:

Average: 0.22 inches
Record: 3.4 inches (1926)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 84.5 degrees

Lowest High: 52 degrees
Record High: 105 degrees (1989, 1992)

Average Low: 55.3 degrees
Highest Low: 77 degrees
Record Low: 35 degrees (1922)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

go to top

To Do List . . .
Fruit and Nut Trees

Thin deciduous fruit to 6 inch spacing. The earlier this is done after fruit set, the more size response will be expected in fruit remaining on the tree.

Give special attention to deciduous fruit trees, provide adequate soil moisture for fruit sizing in the late April and May period.

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Herbs

Small white balls of frothy foam may show up on the new growth of some of your herbs in spring, especially on Rosemary, Sage and other woody perennial herb plants. These 1/4 - 1/2 inch "balls" are the protective hiding place for the nymph of a relatively harmless insect called a "spittlebug" (Philaenus sp.) which feeds on the plant's sap and uses the foam to hide itself from predators. Spittlebugs are easily rinsed off your plants with your garden hose.

Often in Spring, we find a Dill or Fennel plant in our garden loaded with aphids and their sticky mess. Aphids usually occur at low levels that are not very harmful to the plant - merely rinse them off with your garden hose and wash your picked herbs well before cooking with them. Insecticides are not generally recommended on herbs, since they are used for cooking. A weaker plant may become heavily infested - either pull and discard the plant, or leave it in your garden as a source of food (aphids) to attract ladybird beetles and other beneficial insects.

Landscape Plants

Tree water use, desert types being the exception, increases rapidly during this period of leafing out and gradually higher air temperatures.

Allow your wildflowers to go to seed. They will produce a natural healthy feast for birds as well as reseeding themselves to come up again in your yard next year.

Make plans for Arbor Day, The Last Friday in April

Most woodpecker damage occurs during the period of breeding and territory establishment, February through June

Roses

Continue fertilizing established roses, liquid fertilizers can be added at 2 week intervals, follow the directions on the container.

Turf

Begin fertilizing Bermuda grass lawns during late April or early May. Follow the directions on the container.

Vegetables

Beans (Lima & Snap), Black eyed Peas, Carrots, Cucumbers, Jicama, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Okra, Green Onions, Peanuts, Radishes, Summer Squash, Sunflowers

Plant Transplants

Jerusalem Artichokes

Include edible and cut flowers in your vegetable garden. In addition to adding beauty they will attract beneficial insect pollinators which will increase your fruit set.

go to top

Don't List . . .

Do not use pre-emergent herbicides in an area in which you intend to plant seeds.

Do not plant seeded Bermuda until the soil warms up in mid to late May.

go to top

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Low fruit set on deciduous trees (apples, pears, peaches, apricots pears)

May be the result of a mild winter with minimal chilling hours. Be sure to plant varieties with less than 400 hours of chilling required for fruit set.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

There are large bright red and black or all black bugs on my fruit

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Citrus leaf drop

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by slug, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Damage is Noticed on the Roots Cultural \ Environmental Questions

May be the result of a mild winter with minimal chilling hours. Be sure to plant varieties with less than 400 hours of chilling required for fruit set.

Tomatoes have a large soft rot at the blossom end of the fruit

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Insect/Pest Questions

There are large bright red and black or all black bugs on my fruit

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by slug, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

There are hundreds of small gray bugs in the yard, some are even coming in the house

Disease Questions There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Faces from the past

2009-03-30T14:51:00.000-07:00

Family Outing

2009-03-29T15:03:00.000-07:00

At the Wild Animal Park!

2009-03-28T15:02:00.000-07:00

They're leaving so soon!

2009-03-24T14:40:00.001-07:00

Wife of the Artist after the Scottsdale Art Festival - surely we can fit one more thing in the truck!

What to do in a Desert Garden in March?

2009-03-01T01:00:00.000-07:00

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for March
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.9 inches
Record: 4.9 inches (1941)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 75.5 degrees
Lowest High: 49 degrees (1915)
Record High: 100 degrees (1988)

Average Low: 48.8 degrees
Highest Low: 74 degrees (1986)
Record Low: 25 degrees (1966)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Winter lawns may require once to twice per week watering depending on the weather. DO NOT OVER WATER!

Vegetables

Prepare garden soil for Spring planting.

Plant Seeds

Beans (lima and snap), beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, jicama, melons (cantaloupe, muskmelon, watermelon), okra, green onions, peanuts, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers. Plant Transplants

Artichokes (globe and Jerusalem), eggplant, peppers and tomatoes.

Roses

Fruit and Nut Trees

Thin deciduous fruit to 6 inch spacing. The earlier this is done after fruit set, the more size response will be expected in fruit remaining on the tree.

Prune frost sensitive citrus until mid March, after they begin to leaf out with new spring growth. Wait until all chance of frost has past but allow time for re-growth to shade exposed bark, protecting it from sun scald as the days get longer and hotter.

Plant Citrus Trees - Young two to five year old trees transplant most successfully. Larger, older trees are more costly, harder to transplant without injury (to yourself and the tree), and suffer more from transplant shock. It will generally be three years after transplant before fruit production and that is the same whether you plant a 2 year old tree or a 10 year old tree. Go small!

Landscape Plants

Control weeds while they are young, tender, and their roots are manageable, or before they sprout. Be sure to remove before they set seed. Remove London Rocket and other weeds in the mustard family now to prevent large populations of False Chinch bugs in April. pre-emergent herbicides containing Pendimethalin or Isoxaben can be used to control prostrate Spurge and other weeds.

Prune frost sensitive plants, such as bougainvillea, after they begin to leaf out with new spring growth.

Apply mulch around the base of plants to conserve moisture and prevent weeds.

If you have previously had a problem, apply around the base of agaves a pesticide labeled for use on grubs to kill the grubs of the Agave Weevil. Repeat application in June.

Make plans for Arbor Day.

Flowers

Plant bee balm (Monarda sp.), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), celosia (Celosia sp.), cosmos (Cosmos sp.), desert marigold (Baileyea multiradiata), English daisy (Bellis perennis), gilia (Gilia sp.), firewheel/indian blanket (Gaillardia), hollyhock (Alcea sp.), marigold (Tagetes sp.), Mexican hat (Ratibida columnifera), Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia), portulaca (Portulaca sp.), primrose (Primula sp.), safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), sage (Salvia sp.), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), sunflower (Helianthus sp.), sweet pea (Lathyrus sp.), verbena (Verbena sp.), wild hyssop (Agastache sp.) and zinnia (Zinnia sp.).

Herbs

Plant anise, basil, bay, caraway, catnip, chamomile, chives, curry, epazote, fennel, feverfew, French tarragon, garlic chives, germander, horehound, hyssop, lavender, lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rue, safflower, sage, salad burnet, santolina, savory (summer and winter), scented geraniums, tansy, thyme and yarrow.

Don't List . . .

Do not use pre-emergent herbicides in an area in which you intend to plant seeds.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Low fruit set on deciduous trees (apples, pears, peaches, apricots pears)

May be the result of a mild winter with minimal chilling hours. Be sure to plant varieties with less than 400 hours of chilling required for fruit set.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Citrus leaf drop

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Damage is Noticed on the RootsCultural / Environmental Questions

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop on Carob, African Sumac, Pine and other evergreen trees

This is a natural seasonal occurrence as the weather warms.

Citrus leaf drop

Low fruit set on deciduous trees (apples, pears, peaches, apricots pears)

May be the result of a mild winter with minimal chilling hours. Be sure to plant varieties with less than 400 hours of chilling required for fruit set.

Citrus fruit drop

The shed of newly set fruit is a natural thinning worsened by hot weather and dry winds. There is no cause for concern.

Insect/Pest Questions

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Something is devouring the grape leaves, only the veins remain.

Mustard yellow paper wasps are out now

Disease QuestionsThere is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Hazards of Gardening

2009-02-16T10:02:00.000-07:00

I got Roses for Valentine's Day. Here I am in front of the raised flower bed I planted this weekend.

The splint is for my newly broken wrist! After planting the new roses, I was pretty tired. I was backing up to admire my work and I tripped over a rake and fell, landing with all my weight on my right wrist. Very painful. That was Sunday afternoon and I tried ice, elevation and compression all night but it kept getting more painful so R. took me to the emergrncy room at 5AM Monday. They took Xrays. Yes it is a fracture and it goes to the joint and may require surgery. I'll know more tomorrow.

Meanwhile, I'm on pain meds and feeling better. Hope the roses like their new home!

Lemons as big as oranges .. no wait - BIGGER!

2009-02-09T16:19:00.000-07:00

Oranges on the left. Meyer lemons on the right.

What to do in a Desert Garden in February?

2009-02-01T01:00:00.000-07:00

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for February
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.7 inches
Record: 4.7 inches(1905)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 70.7 degrees
Lowest High: 46 degrees (1899, 1903)
Record High: 92 degrees (1921, 1986)

Average Low: 44.7 degrees
Highest Low: 65 degrees (1996)
Record Low: 24 degrees (1899, 1993)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

After the first mowing, fertilize winter lawns with a high phosphate fertilizer like superphosphate, triple superphosphate, or a complete fertilizer that is 20% phosphorous or more by weight. Ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) is another option. Follow the application rates and directions on the label.

Identify and correct problems with winter laws quickly.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds

Beets, Bok Choy, Carrots, Chard, Collard Greens, Corn, Cucumbers, Leaf Lettuce, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon, Watermelon), Mustard, Green Onions, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Spinach, Summer Squash, Sunflowers, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Artichokes (Globe & Jerusalem), Asparagus, Chard, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Onion Sets, Peppers, Tomatoes

Roses

Transplant bare root roses

Begin fertilizing established roses with granular fertilizers about the middle of the month. Remember to water the day before application and the day after.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Transplant bare root deciduous fruit trees. Select varieties which require less than 400 hours of chilling.

Fertilize deciduous fruit trees with nitrogen when they leaf out.

Prune frost sensitive citrus after it begins to leaf out with new spring growth.

Landscape Plants

Protect plants from frost damage

Finish pruning nonnative deciduous shade trees, and grapes by the middle of the month.

Transplant bare root plants

Water at least once a month unless rains provide adequate moisture.

Winter watering schedules should be adjusted to about 1/3 of the summer frequency for deciduous and dormant plants, but water deeply each time. Growing flowers may require once to twice per week watering depending on the weather.

Prune frost sensitive plants like bougainvillea after they begin to leaf out with new spring growth.

Make plans for Arbor Day, April 25.

Don't List . . .

DO NOT fertilize frost sensitive plants.

DO NOT over water or over fertilize winter lawns as this will encourage rapid succulent growth which is vulnerable to fungal diseases.

DO NOT water turf at night. Moisture and cool temperatures invite fungal diseases.

DO NOT mow when turf is wet. By wounding the plant (mowing) while it is wet you increase the likelihood of fungal infection. In addition, you increase the likelihood of spreading the fungus on the tires of the mower and on your shoes

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

The stem end of citrus fruit is rotting after harvest

The blossom end of Navel oranges and occasionally tangelos are rotting.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves and stems are abnormally reddish or purple

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly.

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Damage is Noticed on the Roots Cultural \ Environmental Questions

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves and stems are abnormally reddish or purple

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Insect/Pest Questions

snails, slugs

cabbage loopers

birds

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

Brown and white moths on Palo Verde trees

Palo Verde buck moth adults are out. These brown and white moths will lay eggs that hatch into hairy caterpillars on Palo Verde trees. The hairs of the caterpillar are irritating to the skin and should not be touched. These native insects cause little harm to the tree and are kept under control by several beneficial insects. Control is generally not necessary.

Disease Questions

The blossom end of Navel oranges and occasionally tangelos are rotting.

The stem end of citrus fruit is rotting after harvest

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly.

Isn't it a bit early for this?

2009-01-26T19:43:00.000-07:00

The backyard smells heavenly - one of my Meyer lemon trees (bushes) is blooming.

The just-planted Fuji Apple tree.

Lots of tangerines.

And I'm really worried about this nectarine which is already flowering! It never even lost all its leaves. Most of the fruit trees are leafing out and producing buds. It's been exceptionally warm.

Ready to plant

2009-01-21T16:41:00.003-07:00

Had a Kinnow (#7 on the list), my first ever! Only two fruit this year but really really good and juicy and not seedy.

Tried the Moro blood orange (#3 on the list). Very red inside. The tree only produced one fruit this year but the tree looks healthy. A few months ago it fell partly over in high winds and we staked it.

We continue to have tons of Meyer lemons, exceptionally large and juicy this year. The thorns are especially vicious this year too! I gave some to a neighbor who sent it back in the form of yummy lemon curd.

Finally, last weekend we worked on the raised beds, lifting the in-line drip irrigation and adding store-bought potting soil - bags and bags of it. They are ready for planting and I have some six packs of veggies and flowers to set out. I even bought some tomatoes but it is really too early to set them out, it still might freeze. The last freeze date is typically near the end of February.

It's hard to believe it's January, we're having exceptionally warm, balmy weather. Of course it is pleasant but I'd prefer crisp days right now.

We're

More Taste Testing

2009-01-07T15:37:00.003-07:00

Tried my first dwarf Honey (Murcott) Tangor - planted 2006. Only a few fruit. Very bumpy skin. Peels like a tangerine - milder flavor, sweet, very good. Very few seeds.

The Fairchild tangerine is half dead. The other half has lots of fruit. This is the best tasting year so far for this tree. Also I waited until the fruits had time to fully ripen. However, I'm tempted to remove this tree now that it is half dead!

Went to Baker Nursery today and ordered 24 bags of potting soil (48 cu ft!), a tree rose (Double Delight), an Arabian Jasmine and assorted veggies in 6-packs. They have already delivered it all. The potting soil is for my pots of course but mainly for the raised planters which have sunk quite a bit over the past year.

My hand is healing well, stitches removed last Friday. I'm actually developing the habit of wearing gloves to do the dishes and yardwork and I think I'll maintain it. It's a bit of a pain but my hands are not cracked an bleeding which is a big plus.

Baker's has the fruit tree order in but not yet available for sale. I'm looking at the list on their website and plotting what to buy. A pomegranite, an apple and maybe another fig. My fig tree is not doing well.

Meanwhile, I did finally clear out the planters and the melon vines to be ready for planting. Some of the deciduous fruit trees have lost their leaves but not all. We have visible frost on top of the soil in the raised planters.

What to do in a Desert Garden in January?

2009-01-01T01:00:00.000-07:00

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for January
in Phoenix, Arizona


Rainfall:

Average: 0.6 inches
Record: 5.25 inches (1993)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 65.9 degrees
Lowest High: 39 degrees (1937)
Record High: 88 degrees (1971)

Average Low: 41.2 degrees
Highest Low: 61 degrees (1988)
Record Low: 16 degrees (1913)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Identify and correct problems with winter laws quickly.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds

Beets, Bok Choy, Carrots, Chard, Collard Greens, Lettuce, Leek, Mustard, Green Onions, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Rutabagas, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Artichokes (Globe & Jerusalem), Asparagus, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Chard, Kohlrabi, Lettuce

Roses

Attend pruning demonstrations

Transplant bare root roses

Fruit and Nut Trees

Attend pruning demonstrations

Transplant bare root deciduous fruit trees. Select varieties which require less than 400 hours of chilling.

Landscape Plants

Protect plants from frost damage

Prune nonnative deciduous shade trees Attend pruning demonstrations put on by local Rose Societies, Garden Clubs, Nurseries and the Cooperative Extension Office

Transplant bare root plants

Move living Christmas Trees outside to a shaded, cool location. Transplant into permanent location as soon as soil temperatures warm.

Water at least once a month unless rains provide adequate moisture.

Winter watering schedules should be adjusted to about 1/3 of the summer frequency for deciduous and dormant plants, but water deeply each time. Winter lawns and growing flowers may require once to twice per week watering depending on the weather.

Make plans for Arbor Day, the last friday in April.

Don't List . . .

DO NOT over water or over fertilize winter lawns as this will encourage rapid succulent growth which is vulnerable to fungal diseases.

DO NOT water turf at night when the temperatures are coolest as this fosters the growth of fungal diseases.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

The stem end of citrus fruit is rotting after harvest

The blossom end of Navel oranges and occasionally tangelos are rotting.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves and stems are abnormally reddish or purple

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaves of vegetables (particularly cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower etc.) being eaten by slugs, snails, cabbage looper, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Damage is Noticed on the Roots Cultural \ Environmental Questions

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Citrus leaf drop

Leaves and stems are abnormally reddish or purple

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Insect/Pest Questions

snails, slugs

cabbage looper

birds

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Various beetles are emerging from firewood stored in homes, such as long-horned beetles or metallic wood borers.

Do not be overly concerned, they can not attack the dry, finished wood of a typical home. Simply vacuum them up.

Small gray flies periodically emerge from potted plants.

Disease Questions

The blossom end of Navel oranges and occasionally tangelos are rotting.

The stem end of citrus fruit is rotting after harvest

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Taste Test New Citrus

2008-12-28T12:52:00.003-07:00

The citrus have been ripening on their for a while now. I did not want to rush to pick them. For many of the trees, this is the first harvest.

today I picked a
(# 10. on list) Clementine Tangerine - very good, a bit seedy, true tangerine flavor with loose skin
(# 11. on list) Orange – Trovita Orange - good flovor, a bit dry and seedy, thick skin, easy to peel.

Citrus - Left to Right
1.Lime – Std Thornless Mexican 2000
2.Blood Orange – Dwarf Sanguinelli 2000
3.Blood Orange – Std Moro 2006
4.Grapefruit – Std Ruby 2000
5.Orange – Std Arizona Sweet 2000
6.Tangerine - Dwarf Dancy 2006
7.Tangerine or Tangor x Mandarin according to Wikipedia - Std Kinnow 2006
8.Tangor – Dwarf Honey (Murcott) 2006
9.Lemon - Dwarf Meyer fall 2002
10.Tangerine – Std Clementine
11.Orange – Std Trovita (after the Minneola Tangelo died in the frost) 2007
12.Tangerine – Std Fairchild 2000
13.Tangor – Dwarf Temple 2006
14.Lemon – Dwarf Meyer fall 2002

What to do in a Desert Garden in December?

2008-12-01T01:00:00.000-07:00

Here are some tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for December
in Phoenix, Arizona


Rainfall:

Average: 1.0 inches
Record: 4.0 inches (1967)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 66.2 degrees
Lowest High: 36 degrees (1898)
Record High: 87 degrees (1950)

Average Low: 41.8 degrees
Highest Low: 59 degrees (1949)
Record Low: 22 degrees (1900, 1911)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Identify and correct problems with winter laws quickly.

Vegetables

Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Collard Greens, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), Mustard, Green Onions, Peas, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Asparagus, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf)

Watch for insect and pest problems, identify and manage early to prevent damage.

Roses

New rose catalogs come out and bare root roses are available at nurseries from the middle to the end of the month.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Be prepared to protect citrus from early winter frosts

Wrap the trunks of young citrus and other cold-tender trees with cloth, cardboard or several layers of newspaper (NOT plastic) to protect them from the winter freeze. Leave them wrapped until the threat of frost has passed in the Spring.

Peel color is not a good indicator of maturity or taste in citrus. Give it the taste test. If it is not sweet enough for your liking, leave it on the tree. Up to a point, the longer the fruit is left on the tree the sweeter.

Deciduous fruit trees must receive sufficient chilling for their flower buds to develop properly. Different varieties have different "chilling requirements." In order to have good fruit set, even in milder winters, choose a variety that requires less than 400 hours of chilling.

Landscape Plants

Reduce irrigation to one deep watering of the root zone per month for the winter

Plant winter hardy trees, shrubs and vines

Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied from October through early December for winter annual weed control. Follow the package directions carefully for best results. DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides where you will be planting seeds this season.

Be prepared for early winter frost

Don't List . . .
DO NOT increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering, watering at night, over fertilizing, or mowing when the grass is wet.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rots. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, making the rind less supple and less resilient to stretching and growing, thus as the fruit starts to enlarge it splits. There is nothing to be done for this season, ensure adequate irrigation next summer.

Small fruit size

This may be related to a heavy fruit set or weather. Lack of normal rainfall during the midsummer period can have a direct influence on fruit size. Citrus fruit growth is always greater as a response to rain vs. a similar amount of irrigation water.

This is probably the result of stink bug feeding earlier in the season. No bitter taste effect results from this damage.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

There are thousands of little black dots on the leaves of my acacia tree.

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Small fruit size

The needles on several branches of a pine tree are turning brown but staying attached to the tree

Insect/Pest Questions

There are thousands of little black dots on the leaves of my acacia tree.

Brown stains that are obvious in some pecan meats

This is probably a result of stink bugs feeding earlier in the season. No bitter taste effect results from this damage.

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Citrus leaves are curled and/or the fruit is slightly scarred.

Disease Questions

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

What to do in a Desert Garden in November?

2008-11-01T01:00:00.000-07:00


Here are some tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for November
in Phoenix, Arizona


Rainfall:

Average: 0.7 inches
Record: 3.6 inches (1905)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 74.9 degrees
Lowest High: 40 degrees (1919)
Record High: 96 degrees (1924)

Average Low: 48.9 degrees
Highest Low: 71 degrees (1988)
Record Low: 27 degrees (1931)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

For a green winter lawn, overseed established Bermuda grass lawns from mid October through mid November.

Vegetables

Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Chard, Collard Greens, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), Mustard, Onions (Bulb & Green), Peas, Radishes, Rutabagas, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Asparagus, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Chard, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf)

Watch for insect and pest problems, identify and manage early to prevent damage.

Roses

Plant container roses from mail-order catalogs, old garden roses in particular.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Be prepared to protect citrus from early winter frosts

Landscape Plants

Water applications should be greatly reduced for the winter

Plant winter hardy trees, shrubs and vines

Be prepared for early winter frost

Don't List . . .

Do not increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering or watering at night.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rots. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by slugs, snails, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Insect/Pest Questions

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by slugs, snails, cabbage loopers, or birds.

There are lots of aphids, tiny insects, on my plants

Disease Questions

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

What to do in a Desert Garden in October?

2008-10-01T01:00:00.000-07:00

Here are some tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for October
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.7 inches
Record: 4.4 inches (1972)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 88.1 degrees
Lowest High: 56 degrees (1959)
Record High: 107 degrees (1980)

Average Low: 60.8 degrees
Highest Low: 82 degrees (1987)
Record Low: 34 degrees (1900,1911)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

A light application of potassium on Bermuda in the fall will enable it to come out of dormancy in the spring with greater vigor.

Overseed established Bermuda grass lawns from mid October through mid November for a green winter lawn.

Vegetables

Plant Seeds

Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Collard Greens, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), Leeks, Mustard, Onions (Bulb & Green), Parsnips, Peas, Radishes, Rutabagas, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Garlic, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf)

Roses

Watch for second season of powdery mildew

Fruit and Nut Trees

Landscape Plants

It is too late to fertilize freeze-sensitive plants such as citrus, hibiscus, bougainvillea, etc. However, early fall fertilization can help the recovery of summer-weary trees, shrubs, vines, ground covers, lawns and flowers. Nitrogen fertilizer should be adequate. Follow with good deep irrigation.

Cut back watering frequencies as plant needs decrease with shortening, cooling days

Plant winter hardy trees, shrubs and vines

Plant wild flowers

Don't List . . .

Do not increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering or watering at night.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rots. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Pecans Drop before peak harvest time

This is the trees normal shedding of nuts that are damaged or underdeveloped. No management required.

Citrus turning yellow and droping before time. Brown sunken spot on the blossom end (as opposed to the stem end) of the fruit.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Agave collapsed into a smelly, putrid, mess practically overnight

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, hornwormsor birds.

Pecan Aphid infestations

- Most of the damage is not to the tree but to everything under the tree which gets coated with a sticky covering. There is no good control, just hose off the sidewalks, lawn furniture, etc. under the trees.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

The bark is discolored and cracking on the South or West side of the trunk

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

There are large, white grubs in the soil around my roots and actually in the roots.

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Pecans Drop before peak harvest time

This is the trees normal shedding of nuts that are damaged or underdeveloped. No management required.

The bark is discolored and cracking on the South or West side of the trunk

Insect/Pest Questions

Agave collapsed into a smelly, putrid, mess practically overnight

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

Pecan Aphid infestations

Disease Questions

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

RECIPE: Vertical Roasted Chicken

2008-09-30T18:22:00.006-07:00

I've been meaning to post a few recipes, so here's my first one. We were vegetarians for years so I am re-discovering how to cook with meat and being much pickier than I used to be. Also I have a little more time after work on some days so I can take a while if results warrant it.

Roasted chicken is hardly unique but this recipe combines the features that I currently like best. I prefer minimal handling and cutting (so I avoid the flattened chicken that I used to make) and I like the skin to be crisp but not burnt, hence the use of a vertical roaster to raise the chicken and expose most of the skin and also a high temperature but not too high. Also I don't like to fuss so I keep the temperature the same throughout the process. Perhaps I should add that we prefer chicken to be completely done, not a bit rare in spots. Also I want to avoid non-stick pans and implements. But I still want it all to be easy to clean.

I use the NorPro Stainless Steel Roaster which has a small pan at the bottom to catch most if not all of the juices. This is a cheap device I bought at Amazon. I place the device inside a shallow stainless steel baking pan. These are both very easy to clean and has the benefit of capturing the juices well. I use a stainless steel baster to remove the juices from the little pan at the end of cooking. They can be used as the base of a sauce for this or future dinners. I have two roasters and can easily fit two chickens in my oven at once, but usually I cook one at a time.

This recipe is basically a variant of one I found on the Splendid Table website, with quite a few adjustments to meet my evolving specs. I'm sorry for all the steps, I'm just trying to be fairly complete. It's very easy. Also note, I think you could use any non-vertical roasting rack and get fairly similar results - the point is to raise the bird up off it's juices. I like the vertical roaster because it collects the juices nicely and seems to cook a bit quicker and produces maximal crispy skin.

Vertical Roasted Chicken

Garlic cloves, onion slices, lemon/orange/fruit slices and/or fresh herbs (completely optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper or hot sauce (also optional but I think you really need salt - I use Diamond brand kosher salt)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil or other delicious fat (I like to use duck fat when I have it, or bacon fat)
3-5 pound chicken (a humanely raised chicken please!)

Remove the oven's middle rack(s). Put the bottom rack at the lowest level so there is room for the upright chicken and vertical rack.
Preheat to 400 (if you have a convection oven use 400, otherwise try 425 or 450).
Clean, rinse and dry the chicken, removing innards and extra fat as needed. I like to freeze these for future use. I separate out the livers and add to a jar of chicken livers that I am saving until I get enough to male something special. It is almost impossible to find organic chicken livers locally.
Bend the wings to tuck the wing tips under the wings, forming a triangle with the wings.
Rub the oil or fat all over the chicken and then sprinkle or rub with salt and optional pepper or hot sauce.
(OPTIONAL) You can push thin lemon slices and/or chopped herbs under the skin in strategic places but I usually skip this step.
Set the Vertical Roaster in a shallow baking pan. Push the chicken down onto the wire tower so the top of the vertical roaster comes up to or through the neck cavity. Rest the bird's legs on the raised edge at the bottom of the vertical roaster to avoid having them soak in the juices. You can add a few tablespoons of liquid to the little pan at the bottom of the roaster. I used to do this but once I forgot and it was fine and did not smoke too much.
(OPTIONAL) Push herbs or other flavoring into the cavity along with the ribs of the vertical roaster. This will only have a minor affect on the final product but it is a nice touch and enhances the juices.
Place the baking pan with the chicken on it's roaster into the preheated oven on the center of the bottom rack. Remember that you have to remove the other racks, preferably before they get hot.Bake/roast at 400 degrees, using the convection setting for approximately 10 minutes per pound plus 20 minutes if the chicken is cold from the refrigerator (or plus 10 minutes if the chicken has been out for a half hour - not necessarily recommended practice from a food safety point of view).
When the allotted time is up (or maybe 10 minutes in advance) check to see if it is done. Either use an instant read thermometer or prick the leg at the thigh joint to see if the juices run clear, or just use your judgment based on how it feels and moves when you touch it.
When done, remove it from the oven and turn off the oven.
Let bird rest 10 minutes at room temperature, still on the rack, then serve. You can simply leave it on the roaster and cut away the legs, thighs and wings and then (optionally) the wish bone. Be careful when you cut the skin at first, especially at the thigh, because hot juices may rapidly flow out. Then cut away the breast meat or slice it off. Don't forget to use or save the delicious juices, possibly removing them from the brimming pan with a baster. Save the bones and scraps for soup - I collect them in my freezer until I'm ready to make broth.
If some guests don't eat chicken skin, you might want to remove it before serving, and share it amongst those who appreciate it. You can even crisp it under the broiler if needed.
Timing notes - Not counting the ten minute rest at the end, a 4 pound chicken takes about an hour (4 times 10 plus 20 minutes) and a five pound chicken takes about an hour and ten minutes. So it's not super fast, but worth the wait. And once it's in the oven you don't have any fussing over it until the end.

I'm Back!

2008-09-26T12:12:00.004-07:00

I have not been away except mentally. And I literally was staying out of the back garden for a while now.

I was focused on planning a family reunion among other things (it went well!)

The plants in the raised beds had all died in July. We had huge storms and lots of rain and it has been all we could do to just keep the weeds in the gravel areas somewhat in control and pick melons before they become too ripe. It was too hot and miserable. And I was annoyed with my helper (otherwise known as my dear, sweet husband) for destroying my Mexican Oregano instead of weeds. This is the same guy that destroyed a beautiful hibiscus a while back. At least the herb plant sort of looked like a weed.

That's a picture of plants that I bought about 6 weeks ago. And never planted. Sigh.

Whine, whine, whine! I'm over it already.

The days are shorter now and it's cooler in the mornings at least. Of course I've started back to work so I don't have many mornings. But I've been kicking myself to get going on the garden again. The first thing I did was get a professional landscape company to estimate the cost of bi-weekly maintenance. This is just on-going clean-up - pulling weeds and raking and a little pruning. I have hired a company to start next week.

They will plant and fix my irrigation (for a fee) too. This is great, because planting in the ground is really difficult here, the ground is so rocky. I do want to add some more desert plants and trees and digging holes is really difficult here. That's what I love about my raised beds.

So today I finally went back out and surveyed the garden and rounded up the ripe melons. I had not picked melons for 2 weeks and in the mean time 3 melons become overripe and started to rot on the vine. I picked several ripe melons and consigned the overripe ones to the compost heap. I ended up eating quite a bit of watermelon for breakfast. At least it was cool inside - eating warm watermelon seems too weird to me. I sprinkle melons with a little kosher salt. My husband prefers sugar, which seems practically sacrilegious to me. I just touched the knife to the watermelon and it cracked open, perfectly ripe and wonderful.

The melons seem to have been hybridizing at random. We have many exotic appearing melons which I definitely did not plant. Little smooth-skinned cantaloupes. Huge dark green warty things that taste like watered down cantaloupes. Misshapen triangular honeydews.

Apparently I need to plant the different types further apart to lessen commingling. A few of the melon plants seem to have stopped growing. Perhaps these are ones with over-ripened fruits. But others are continuing to produce flowers and set melons at an almost alarming rate. I suppose the shorter days will soon signal a decline in production. But it is still hot and sunny during the day.

Here is one of the small smooth melons together with a more normal cantaloupe. Next year I think I'll try to just plant small melons. The huge ones are overwhelming and hard to give away.

We also have a nice crop of Japanese eggplant. The eggplants and the okra were the only surviving plant from my spring planting, aside from herbs in containers which did very well indeed. I'm going to harvest the remaining basil as I will have a steady supply coming in from my CSA share which started this week.

I think another one of the peach trees has given up. The nectarine trees, the plum and the Aprium are looking very healthy. The fig limps along. One of the storms knocked over several of the small trees so we have them staked. They did not fall down but they leaned severely.

The next thing I have to do is change the irrigation, now that the hottest part of the summer is over. I have a spreadsheet where I record the settings and what worked and what did not work. I ended up setting the mini-sprinklers on the containers to briefly spray three times a day and this made all the difference. Incredible amounts of basil and other herbs survived all summer.

What to do in a Desert Garden in September?

2008-09-01T01:00:00.000-07:00

Here are some tips on what to do in the desert garden this month from the
University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension
There's also a lot of other helpful information and FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low
desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for September
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 0.86 inches
Record: 5.5inches (1939)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 98.3 degrees
Lowest High: 66 degrees (1895)
Record High: 116 degrees (1950)

Average Low: 72.8 degrees
Highest Low: 90 degrees (1982, 1983)
Record Low: 47 degrees (1895, 1965)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Apply Iron each month according to the directions on the package.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns

To remove a Bermuda lawn

Water and fertilize the grass to ensure that it is actively growing
Apply a herbicide with glyphosate according to the directions on the package
The grass will take in the herbicide throughout the entire root system, thus killing the plant rather than just knocking it back
After a few days water again
Reapply the herbicide to any of the turf that regrows
Continue this cycle (may take three or more times) of fostering growth and applying herbicide until the grass is completely killed

Vegetables

Prepare bed for fall planting

Plant Seeds

Snap Beans, Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Collard Greens, Cucumbers, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), Leeks, Mustard, Green Onions, Peas, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants

Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Lettuce (Head & Leaf)

Roses

Toward the end of August and into September add an iron supplement if roses show yellowing from iron deficiency

Fruit and Nut Trees

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Native and imported heat tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall.

Transplant palms in the heat of the summer for best results

Protect newly transplanted trees from heavy winds and dust storms by staking carefully

Late August or early September fertilization will benefit most plants struggling to have a flush of growth before slowing down for the winter. The growth put on before dormancy will store more energy during the winter that will be available to the plant when it pushes growth in the spring.

Don't List . . .

Do not increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering or watering at night.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rot. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions during September
in the Low Desert

Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

snails, slugs,

cabbage loopers

birds

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There are tiny little white flies everywhere!

Agave collapsed into a smelly, putrid, mess practically overnight

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

The bark is discolored on the South or West side of the trunk

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer.

The bark is discolored on the South or West side of the trunk

Insect/Pest Questions

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

There are tiny little white flies everywhere!

Agave collapsed into a smelly, putrid, mess practically overnight

Seedlings have been clipped off right at the soil line

Leaves of vegetables are being eaten by snails, slugs, cabbage loopers, or birds.

Disease Questions

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Older leaves turn yellow and fall off. The plant is stunted. It wilts even when water is available The stem is streaked.

Very sudden die back of an olive tree branch. There is brown or green streaking between the bark and the wood.

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Rain, Weeds and the Neighbors Lose a Fig

2008-08-09T16:28:00.001-07:00

We've had a lot of rain. Locally it's known as the monsoon season, but having lived in Thailand and India, I can say that it's nothing like a real monsoon.

It's enough rain for weeds to thrive and attempt to take over my yard. Fortunately the weeds are not in the orchard or the raised beds, not yet anyway. My husband and I have been risking heat prostration to get the weeds under control. Luckily the ground is soft from all the rain.

Earlier in my battle against the weeds, I had purchased a tool known as "Grampa's Weeder" which had proved useless in our rock hard soil. But it works perfectly with the ground damp from the rain. You center it over a weed that has a carrot-like root, press down, then lever out the root - all from a standing position.

On a foray out, I discovered that a neighbor's fig tree has fallen over. This is not the fig tree that we have been raiding - that one is MUCH larger - but it is the same variety. I had noticed previously that it had poles seeming to help prop it up and I guess the storm did it in. We have had lots of wind and limbs and even whole trees fell down all over town. It looks like the fig tree may have have circling roots.

The yellow figs were not quite ripe.

What to do in a Desert Garden in August?

2008-08-01T01:00:00.002-07:00

There are tips on what to do in the desert garden this month
from the University of Arizona's College of Agriculture Maricopa
County Extension website.
There's also a lot of other helpful information and
FAQ's on that website.
Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the
low desert is John Chapman's site.

Climate Information for August
in Phoenix, Arizona
Rainfall:

Average: 1.0 inches
Record: 5.4 inches (1951)

Temperature (degrees F):

Average High: 103.7 degrees
Lowest High: 73 degrees (1951)
Record High: 116 degrees (1972, 1975)

Average Low: 79.2 degrees
Highest Low: 92 degrees (1995)
Record Low: 58 degrees (1917)

Note: Rainfall and temperatures vary widely within the valley depending upon elevation and microclimate.

To Do List . . .
Turf

Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns each month beginning late April or early May with nitrogen according to the directions on the package.

Apply Iron one per month according to the directions on the package.

Apply one inch of water per week to Bermuda lawns.

Raise the mowing height to 2.5 to 3 inches during the warmer months.

Once every two or three years dethatch Bermuda lawns if necessary. Only dethatch during the active growing season, May through August. This enables the turf to quickly recover.

To remove a Bermuda lawn:

Water and fertilize the grass to ensure that it is actively growing
Apply a herbicide with glyphosate according to the directions on the package
The grass will take in the herbicide throughout the entire root system, thus killing the plant rather than just knocking it back
After a few days water again
Reapply the herbicide to any of the turf that regrows
Continue this cycle (may take three or more times) of fostering growth and applying herbicide until the grass is completely killed

Vegetables

Prepare bed for fall planting

Plant Seeds

Snap Beans, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Collard Greens, Corn, Cucumbers, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf) Leeks, Mustard, Green Onions, Summer Squash

Plant Transplants

Tomatoes

Roses

Water deeply as temperatures climb

Hose off plants in the early morning to increase humidity and control spider mites

Toward the end of August and into September add an iron supplement if roses show yellowing from iron deficiency

Fruit and Nut Trees

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Apply mulch to the ground around the base of heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Cut off spent blooms to stimulate rebloom

Native and imported heat tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall.

Transplant palms in the heat of the summer for best results

Protect newly transplanted trees from heavy winds and dust storms by staking carefully

Don't List . . .

Do not increase opportunities for fungal disease on turf by over watering or watering at night.

DO NOT OVER WATER which will result in root rots. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

Frequently Asked Questions
Damage is Noticed on the Fruit

Citrus fruit split

Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer.

Damage is Noticed on the Leaves

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Leaf Drop

Seasonal Leaf drop is normal intensified by hot, dry weather

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

Tomatoes and other vegetables experience "failure to thrive." There are little nodules on the roots.

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Damage is Noticed on the Stem or Trunk

The bark is discolored on the South or West side of the trunk

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Damage is Noticed on the Roots

Cultural / Environmental Questions

Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer.

Leaf Drop

Seasonal Leaf drop is normal intensified by hot, dry weather

Leaves are abnormally yellow but the veins are still green

Pines are dying back from the tips

This is a probably a physiological response. Check the soil near the trunk. Those with circling roots exhibit the worst symptoms.

The bark is discolored on the South or West side of the trunk

Insect/Pest Questions

A shiny little bug is destroying Mexican Evening Primrose, Dichondra, or vegetables

The leaves or needles have yellow spots or stippling. Leaves are stunted and twisted. There is a fine webbing between leaves.

Bermuda grass is turning yellow-brown and dying in patches, there are tiny white flecks in the soil around the roots

What are those things that look like roaches on steroids?

There are tiny little white flies everywhere!

What is making that incredibly loud noise?

Disease Questions

There is a gray or white powdery substance on plants

Seedlings and bedding plants wilt and die suddenly

Leaves, twigs (and in advanced stages, branches) of pears and pyracantha are dying back from the tips with a scorched appearance

There are brown balls/galls on the stems of oleander

Dry, thin bark cracks and splits to reveal black, powdery spores. Foliage above the wound is sparse and leaves may be small. Eventually branches die back to the canker.

Saguaro cactus has large black patches that are oozing and smell terrible

Whole tree, or significant portion of plant died suddenly, the leaves turned brown but did not fall off.

Yes, it rains in the Desert

2008-07-28T07:11:00.003-07:00

The desert plants are happy after all the rain. The ocotillo cactus has even leafed out again.

Figs!

2008-07-28T07:10:00.002-07:00

I've been away on a trip to the Midwest. Before I left, we had had a brutal hot spell that killed most of my plants. Then we had rain, lots of rain with standing puddles in the back yard. When I got back from the trip my husband had discovered that the fig tree in a neighbor's yard had started to ripen. Meanwhile our own fig tree is not doing well. I planted a Mission fig because that's my favorite for eating but as I wander around the old neighborhoods in Phoenix I am realizing that all the old fig trees that I see are yellow figs. Here's some we picked, next to the flowers from the last CSA share until fall.

These figs are delicious when really really ripe. They are still mostly green but yellow on the bottom and very soft when they are ready to eat. Naturally the local birds do their best to get to them first but there are so many that there are plenty to share. The tree is about 40 feet high and so far we are just picking those we can reach by standing on the ground. Luckily they are not ripening all at once. I think these are the same kind of fig that I knew as a child in Fig Newtons.

Here is a shot of the garden as it looks now, after removing the dead plants. The basil in pots in the shade of our elm tree is doing well. When we had the super-hot weather, all the melons ripened at once, regardless of size, but now another crop of melons is forming. The melon plant in the background has two watermelons forming on it. I was surprised when the zucchini died but I think some shade would have protected it. The eggplants all ripened at once as well and the plants are still alive but not flowering again. The okra seems happy with the weather, especially now that it is more humid. It's time to start thinking of fall planting and maybe starting some seeds inside.

Born on the 4th of July

2008-07-05T13:42:00.004-07:00

Dad was born on the 4th of July and we went over yesterday with cupcakes and ice cream - and another large cantaloupe from the garden. When we were little, I remember eating cantaloupe halves filled with vanilla ice cream. That still sounds good, I'll have to get a little vanilla ice cream.

The cantaloupe that we brought over was one of 16 (16!) that I picked on Friday morning, along with a honeydew and a watermelon. I took a bunch in to work and we still have several in our frig. All have been good so far except for one that was overripe and starting to ferment inside. There are only a few melons left on the vines and I'm not sure we will have more this year. Maybe it's just too hot. Some of the vines do have flowers but some the little melons are not developing but are turning yellow and falling off.

Friday night we had a big storm and lots of rain, the yard was flooded. So now it's hot and muggy. Weeds are thriving. I'm afraid that the berry vine is not going to make it. Most of the remaining veggie plants had already died, leaving only six Japanese eggplants mini-bushes and a small okra. I'm sure the fruit trees appreciate the rain.

But it's just so hot right now. Last year we also started with a hot spell. I remember taking off for the coast over the fourth of July and the rest of the summer was not so bad. So we have hopes.

Next summer I have to be more prepared to add shade, or maybe I'll plant more in big pots that I can move under the elm tree when it gets too intense. The parts of the garden in afternoon shade from the elm have done best. Maybe I'll plant another elm tree - I can see just where to plant one for optimum shade but unfortunately it will be ten years before we'd have significant shade!

I'm planning to work on growing a few things from seed, starting them indoors in mid-August to be ready for fall planting, and otherwise staying inside a lot until it's cooler.

Most did not make it through the heat

2008-07-02T09:32:00.000-07:00

I have to remember that June is the hardest month for plants because the high heat is a big shock to the plants and also it is extremely dry. July and August, while not muggy by East coast standards, are much more humid and the so-called monsoon season usually brings at least some rains. I'm leaving these tomato plants standing in hopes that the tomatoes will continue to ripen.
(Note added a month later - they did ripen, after it cooled down a bit and rained but the plants were dead so no hope of fall tomatoes).

Blast Furnace Gardening

2008-06-30T08:40:00.005-07:00

The garden is not doing too well. Starting about 2 weeks ago, we had 9 days in a row over 110. Considering that an average summer only has 10 days over 110, that was a brutal start to the hot season. Meanwhile, our (NEW!) air conditioner was having problems. It kept over-heating and shutting down for 4 hours at a time. The inside temp would rise to about 90 and we did not feel up to going outside and weren't sure what to do anyway. In retrospect, I probably should have at least hosed everything down in the morning and late evening. I'm a little worried about the peach trees, they are awfully yellow. The rest of the new trees seem OK. The citrus are a bit scorched but better than they used to be before creating the orchard area with all the mulch and inline irrigation.

The melons are great. The honeydew was one of the best and sweetest I've ever eaten. Here's the latest harvest - the sunflowers are from the CSA, not my garden. Next year I do think I'll plant sunflowers. The picture shows the first honeydew, the second watermelon and the third cantaloupe, as well as a few last tomatoes. The fuzzy, dewy texture of the newly picked plants, especially the okra and the melons, is just amazing. For the record, we picked the first melons about a week ago.

A lot of plants have died. All the cucumbers, most of the tomatoes and the peppers except those in deep shade.
The fig tree may not make it.

Heat

2008-06-17T13:40:00.003-07:00

Well it was hot before but now it's really hot. I went outside at 5 AM yesterday and again today and it was already quite warm outside. Some of the new trees, especially the peach trees, seem to be yellowing a bit, which I find alarming. This morning I went out early and added extra water with a hose. Just now I noticed that one of the huge melon plants, the one on the east side, is wilting. I hope it rebounds tonight. I'm wilting too!

Sorry I haven't uploaded any pictures recently. It's not hard to do but I have to look up the process each time and now I have mis-placed the cable. Soon.

Birthday Girl and Garden

2008-06-14T15:03:00.000-07:00

Notice the new Indian lightweight clothes - very cool in this heat.

Here's one of the watermelons:

Zucchini, and the sea of melons where the watermelon picture was taken is behind the raised planter.

The harvest - tomatoes, zucchini, lemon cukes, one eggplant, the first peppers, baby squash.

My Share

2008-06-12T16:47:00.005-07:00

I've joined a CSA. If you think that means we must have an awful lot of veggies - ours plus the CSA's - well, you're right. But it's fun. The CSA share includes a dozen eggs (from some very happy chickens) and a big bunch of flowers, which I seldom buy for myself. It's educational to get Maya's Farm's veggies and compare to mine. Her cucumbers look just like mine but hers are delicious and mine are bitter. In fact, I pulled out two huge cucumber plants and just left the lemon cucumber. It's great, and the skins of the cucumbers are not tough. Stella told me that the secret is to pick before they actually turn yellow.

Maya's share also includes a big bunch of Italian parsley and micro-arugula or baby lettuce. She included some really big squash and last week I made stuffed squash, filled with a Greek meat sauce (like you make for moussaka) and topped with cheese. I'd never made stuffed squash before.

I haven't written much because I've been sick and not had much energy. Also I've had to put in extra hours at work so that I can get really for a longish leave of absence starting mid July.

But the garden is doing great. It's hot now but still cool in the mornings. The plants in pots in the shade are doing especially well. The melons are amazing. I'm going to have to read up on how to know when they are ripe. I think I remember that the undertone turns yellow/gold and the fruit separates easily from the vine. I can now see which ones are watermelon and which are cantaloupe. The watermelon plants have deeply divided leaves. I have several varieties each of cantaloupe and watermelon. I think that the honeydew have not fruited yet, but I planted them later. Next year I'll have to start melons from seed to get more varieties. I did start some this year but I started them in the ground and they grew well, then wilted. I could start them in pots and let them get bigger before transplanting.

I have pictures and plan to come back and update these recent posts soon. It takes a while to upload the pics.

Melons

2008-06-04T13:39:00.003-07:00

Today I went out in the garden and noticed lots of melons. They must have been there before since one was about 6 inches! I had to detach one melon plant from a nectarine tree. It was climbing it rapidly.Meanwhile we've been eating the zucchini and eggplants and herbs from the garden - and a few tomatoes. I'm not too fond of the cucumbers but the cucumber plants are very happy.

The rose recovered from having half it's limbs and foliage removed. The new leaves seem to be disease free, as I hoped. And the flowers are fragrant. I do love my Double Delights.

Figs are finally developing:

Memorial Day Weekend

2008-05-27T12:07:00.002-07:00

It was wonderfully cool this weekend and it rained at the start of it. Perfect for pulling weeds and fertilizing, which is what we did. We also put netting over the tomato planter to discourage birds. Birds have built a nest right over the tomatoes and right now the baby birds are learning to fly. If we get too close, the parents start dive-bombing us. They actually ran into Ralph, who was all bemused and not understanding what was happening. We can't get near the back gate to take out the trash! I think this period will be over in a couple of days.

I have bought a bunch of pots (14" terra cotta unglazed) at Ikea and planted some herbs in them under the big tree. I planted a Malabar spinach plant against the iron fence so it has something to climb. This is supposed to be a green veggie that can take the heat. I planted an akra, a borage plant and a bunch of vinca and lisanthus flowers.

Also, must note that after turning the irrigation off for a few days because of the rain, I set it for what I expect to be the summer setting. The only change I am making over the recommendation by the gardeners is that I am watering the raised planters and containers every day, three times a day. The total amount of water is being used but my goal is to keep it constantly a bit damp instead of soaking it and letting it dry out. The reason I made the change is that the veggies seem to thrive much better on constant moisture. I was already doing this with the containers and the veggies there are doing much better than in the raised planters. After all, it's not like these are desert plants.

Meanwhile the melons are getting huge, lots of flowers but not fruit set yet.

Cold, rainy and birds are eating all my tomatoes

2008-05-22T20:27:00.004-07:00

When I got out of work today, my car thermometer said 66 degrees. And it is now raining. That's good because I need to fertilize the citrus and probably add fish emulsion to the raised beds. But what a change from 109 a few days ago. I'll have to adjust the irrigation tomorrow to compensate.

Meanwhile the birds are eating all my tomatoes. They started on the red ones, then ate the reddish ones and are now eating purely green ones. So far the cherry tomatoes are surviving. We're off to Baker's Nursery tomorrow for advice and probably netting. We'll need it for the figs too. By the way, the few tomatoes that I have managed to get when ripe but before birds were very good.

Actually I don't know for sure that it is birds. There are probably roof rats around. I only blame the birds because we see so many of them here. Roof rats are sort of invisible. Supposedly they eat citrus but our citrus has been fine. Citrus is so easy, I'm spoiled.

Fainting fig

2008-05-19T19:15:00.003-07:00

It's very HOT - 109! It suddenly jumped up 20 degrees. The fig tree is very unhappy and I had to resuscitate it this afternoon.

Bird are eating the tomatoes! Big black birds. Maybe I need netting. It's too hot to work out there.

There are lots of tiny cucumbers. They are ugly and spiny just like the huge one but it is easy to rub off the spines and then they look normal.

We had zucchini and eggplant and peppers and tomatoes from the garden yesterday - sort of an impromptu ratatouille.

My artichokes died. Too crispy for them. However there were fresh Arizona artichokes at the farmers market last weekend. Also lots of delicious local apricots.

Eggplants, tomatoes, and an UGLY cucumber

2008-05-14T16:54:00.004-07:00

Ate the first eggplant two days ago with the second tomato. The eggplant was great, the tomato OK, but not as good as hoped. I'm trying to leave the tomatoes on the vine longer to see if that helps. The cherry tomatoes (sweet 100's) are quite good. The basil is all flowering and must be harvested soon. I did kill one mint and one is struggling but the ones in the small pots are doing well since they are well watered from above with tiny sprinkler on the end of drip lines. The fig is suffering and I have added extra water with a hose which helped. The irrigation is still questionable, especially in the middle bed. I think the 'soil' is too raw, coarse and lean and I think the in-line drip is too deep. The water is not wicking up. For the plants (like tomatoes) that are planted deep, that works OK. The fine material that was added on top does not seem to be helping yet, in fact it almost seems waterproof!

Found a huge (9") ugly and very prickly cucumber hiding under the prickly cucumber leaves. Actually I think it was an overgrown gerkin that should have been picked small. It was turning yellow and tasted bitter though it smelled like a cucumber. Straight to the compost for that. I don't know much about cucumbers, having never grown any before. I planted three different varieties fairly close together and I cannot tell them apart. I guess I should have put in tomato cages for them to climb but I did not know they were vines! One actually said it was a bush cucumber but now I think it just means shorter vines! Apparently they stop producing cucumbers when you leave one on the vine to get ripe (yellow). We'll see. There are tiny 1 inch ones but nothing larger.

The summer pattypan type squashes are still producing nice flowers but are not very productive. I'm wondering if the bee shortage is causing problems. We do have zucchini. The melon plants are getting very large but still no evident fruits setting.

No rain for over two months and none expected until mid-July. It's starting to get hot finally. We did have an unusually long cool spring.

Purple Haze

2008-05-10T05:59:00.005-07:00

Jacaranda trees are in bloom all over the valley. In some neighborhoods there are some many that for a distance you see a purple haze over the area. These trees are a little marginal here in the Valley because of our occasional hard freezes but this year they are doing particularly well. Whne we say "The Valley" we mean the Valley of the Sun, an old nickname for the Phoenix area. As in the old advertising slogan, "the Valley of the Sun where Summer comes to Winter". This is in a nearby yard.

The olallieberry's one berry was eaten by birds, as feared. In reaction, I plucked the only two aprium a bit early and ate them. They were not dead ripe, a bit crisp, but still sweet and tasty.

The citrus trees are doing their fruit drop. It's always sad to see the tiny citrus fruit on the ground but they could not possibly bear all the fruit that they set. It's time for citrus fertilizer application. I try to remember by the holiday - Valentine's Day, Memorial Day and Labor Day.

I changed the watering schedule once again. Instead of lots of water every few days, I am giving a little water three times a day, like the containers. I'm hoping to prevent more die off of zucchinis. After all the planters are just like big containers and I've read that for container vegetables, consistent even water and not too much is best.

I've pulled out most of the remaining winter vegetables - the kohlrabi, collards and so on. We had delicious white bean stew with greens and garlic. Lots of greens. The chard in the garden is still doing well so I left it in. I've never particularly liked Bright Lights Chard in the grocery store, it just looks strange to me, but in the garden the different colors really glow. And it tastes fine.

I just discovered that someone has added a Seasonal Desert Gardening Calendar to Google Calendar - Thanks! I was thinking of doing that myself. I can't see how to contact the calendar creator however so I can't send a message in thanks.

The ocotillo and chitalpa tree in the front yard are in bloom. The chitalpa blooms almost year round, except winter.

First red tomato!

2008-05-05T09:01:00.006-07:00

One goal of building the new garden was to get outdoors more. When it's so hot in the middle of the day, I have a tendency to forget to go out early mornings and in the evenings, when it's often cool or pleasantly balmy. And then I sometimes am just in the habit of staying in, and forget to go out, even when it is lovely outdoors. But now I go out and inspect the garden twice a day and often go out to add to the compost heap. I'm loving it! I even stopped going to the gym in favor of longer dog walks. It's getting hot though, and I'll resume the gym visits next week.

Progress report:

The tomatoes are starting to ripen. Yesterday I noticed the first reddish tomato (above) and today it is redder and some of the cherry tomatoes are also turning reddish.

Eggplants - the first eggplants are now a few inches long and there are lots of flowers.

Pattypan squash - although these were the first summer veggies to appear, they are not doing well. The veggies wither and the new flowers are covered in aphids. I think that whole bed has suffered from water stress.

Zucchini - the first zucchini are ready to harvest, at about 3-4 inches. We lost about half the first crop - they turned yellow and withered. Water stress I think.

Beans - the bean plants have climbed to the tops of their cages but we only have a few bean pods formed so far.

Aprium - the fruit is turning yellow but still unripe. I noticed the first local peaches at the farmer's market on Saturday - they but a big sign up so we saw it as we drove by. Unfortunately we could not stop. Next week.

Berries - One ollallieberry, which has turned red. But they are almost black when ripe. I expect a bird will get it so I am watching it closely. The brazos blackberry has not grown much, it's still a few inches high. The olallieberry is at yeast a yard wide now.

Melons - all the remaining melon plants are very healthy. Except for the ones I put in last week, they are all huge and flowering, but no actual melons.

The cucumbers are extremely vigorous and prickly. They have lots of flowers and little cucumbers. I planted 3 different varieties but I don't know which is which and they are all tangled together. One is for cornichons, so they are to be picked small.

The coriander never thrived but it has shot up and flowered and I'm leaving it in place in hopes that it self-sows.

Peppers - small peppers are forming and lots of flowers promising more even though most of the pepper plants are quite stunted looking. One plant is large an healthy looking.

The artichokes wilt alarmingly in the afternoons but so far they recover. No chokes. The outer leaves get crispy and new one form.

Flowers - the pot of winter flowers is very healthy still. Some of the nasturtiums have flowered and others succumbed to overwatering in a pot that does not drain.

Fig - the fig tree is putting out tiny figs. This seems late. Others in the neighborhood are very large. I have a picture of a huge fig tree nearby, I stood under the tree and took the photo pointing straight up. It's a yellow fig and the owners say it ripens in June and we are welcome to pick as many as we want!

What to Do in the Garden in May

2008-05-01T12:34:00.000-07:00

We walked down to the farmer's market at Vincent's this weekend (at Vincent's Restaurant at 40th and Camelback) and brought back dinner. It's a fun destination for us, especially when we bring our dog who is very popular there. Unfortunately I forgot that I meant to go to the class at the Downtown farmer's market on Saturday on what to do in the garden next month.

So here are some tips on what to do in May from the University of Arizona College of Agriculture Maricopa County Extension - I omitted the part on turf which is of no interest to me. There's also a lot of other helpful informaion and FAQ's on that website. Another site of interest on what to do in the garden here in the low desert is John Chapman's site.

To Do List . . .

Vegetables

Plant Seeds
Black eyed Peas, Melons (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon), Okra, Sunflowers

Plant Transplants
Jerusalem Artichokes, Sweet Potatoes

Place shade cloth over tomatoes.

Roses

Continue fertilizing established roses, liquid fertilizers can be added at 2 week intervals, follow the directions on the container.

Fruit and Nut Trees

Plant Citrus Trees - Young two to five year old trees transplant most successfully. Larger, older trees are more costly, harder to transplant without injury (to yourself and the tree), and suffer more from transplant shock. It will generally be three years after transplant before fruit production and that is the same whether you plant a 2 year old tree or a 10 year old tree. Go small!

Pick early-maturing deciduous fruit varieties, which are particularly prone to bird damage, before full maturity. Ripened at room temperature to lessen the bird peck loss.

Cover fruit trees to protect from birds

Give special attention to watering deciduous fruit trees, provide adequate soil moisture for fruit sizing in the late April and May period.

Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.

Landscape Plants

Increase water application as the weather warms.

Tree water use, desert types being the exception, increases rapidly during this period of leafing out and gradually higher air temperatures.

Apply mulch to the ground around heat sensitive plants keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation. Be sure to keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent pest and disease problems.

Apply chelated iron to bottle brush, pyracantha, silk oak, and other plants with iron deficiency symptoms.

Prune palms when flower spathes show or delay pruning until after the palm has finished flowering to prevent infestation of Palm Flower caterpillars. If palms are pruned in the spring, leave the top five rows of peels so the caterpillars have a place to hide.

Don't List . . .

Do not prune citrus except to remove dead or damaged wood and branches obstructing pathways, views, or structures.

Do not use pre-emergent herbicides in an area in which you intend to plant seeds.

Landscaper's Check-up Yesterday

2008-04-29T06:05:00.003-07:00

The landscape company sent Trevor, a foreman, and a worker over to repair the (small) damage to the gravel area that was caused by the earlier leak and to look at a few problems. They added more emitters to the fig tree and I think it will get trough the summer now. They re-buried some of the netafim inline drip tubes in West raised bed and looked at all the raised beds.

I had already increased the watering but we decided that the raised beds needed even more so we increased the duration and put it on daily. After a few days I'm going to cut it back to MWF schedule, once the beds are more evenly damp. In the middle bed especially they recommended watering from the top for a while to get a wicking effect going. The netafim in that bed has sunk to about 8 inches below the soil from the natural settling plus we added more fine mulch a couple months ago.

I had been top watering but had mostly given up on that bed which just wasn't doing well. But yesterday I did plant some transplants there - a couple more eggplants and a couple of cantaloupes.

Although I've had a few difficulties with the landscape installation, it's great that they are providing on-going support. And I like dealing with a company that seems to treat it employees well. I went way over budget on the installation, but I knew the cost in advance and it was my decision.

The only big thing I would change at this point if I had it to do over is that I would have used stacked blocks/stones/urbancrete instead of traditional mortared block walls for the raised planters and the barriers for the orchard. Actually I had planned to have urbancrete (their term for recycled broken concrete) but the time frame for building was narrow and we did not find a supply right then. I should have stockpiled some earlier. More importantly, I should not have been is such a hurry. I really wanted to plant fall/winter crops (greens!) last year. I did not realize I would not be able to plant right away anyway because the fill was too hot! Oh well.

I do like the layout and I am think about how to provide shade. I will probably plant at last one more deciduous tree for summer shade in back. Desert trees are good for filtering the sun, whereas elms and the like can provide too much shade. But I'm still thinking on this because I also want an apple tree. Anyway I will need some sort of shade structure in the meantime, I think.

Eating from the Garden

2008-04-23T12:25:00.003-07:00

I have been overwhelmed with ordinary life and not posting as much as I expected. But I'm sure that next year I'd want to know that we are indeed eating at least a bit from garden. Lettuces and herbs. Some of the lettuce started shooting up along a central stalk last week after our hot spell and I assume they were starting to go to seed so we promptly harvested and ate them. Since then I have been plucking a few leaves here and there for small salads. The pleasure of just a few sprigs of herbs. The unusual interesting taste of winter sorrel. Not something I'd want in a salad but interesting. Biting into a single sorrel leaf I clearly taste the lemony tang but it disappears when shredded into a salad. The cilantro has bolted without ever producing much.

Our neighbor across the street is away for a bit and asked us to pick all the citrus that we want.

The Early Girl tomatoes are getting quite large but still fully green. The eggplants and beans and peppers are flowering. The cucumbers are spreading like crazy and I see tiny cukes. Some of the zucchini and the summer squash should be ready to eat soon. Some of it is withering away instead of growing longer than an inch or so. I adjusted the timing on the irrigation to water a bit more frequently and to water the small containers daily, as it is dry and windy although not especially hot yet.

This next item may prove to be a mistake. I planted several types of mints in the raised planters. I've been unable to grow mint here in the past, even in a self-watering pot. This probably sounds crazy to you who find mint impossible to get rid of!

There are no figs on the fig tree although it seems healthy and is growing. Other fig trees in the neighborhood have big fat unripe figs. Our tiny tree had figs last year but also almost died from frost so maybe it is still recovering. Maybe there will be figs in the fall. I have pictures of a fig tree in a neighbor's yard which is huge. It must be 30 feet or more high. They say it might be the largest in Phoenix, according to their gardener. They have flood irrigation and we do not and that makes a big difference. I'll post the pictures later.

Roses on the Doorstep

2008-04-16T08:24:00.008-07:00

Our neighbor across the street has been keeping us supplied with roses. These appeared on our doorstep wrapped in a towel and I haven't seen him since to say thank you. I love the striped or splashed roses. The bouquet has a strong rose scent. I also wanted to see if he has any oranges left on his trees. He has several mature orange trees which produce far more than one person can eat and he has always said we can pick them anytime. We've picked the one in front but I hate to go in his backyard without him realizing it.

My craving for citrus has been growing stronger ever since we finished the citrus from our trees this year. Finally I broke down and bought some yesterday. I ate one immediately when I got home and felt immensely better.

I took these pictures a couple of days ago, at the start of a heat wave. It's been in the 90's for 3 days but still cooling at night.

Here's a couple of shots of our front yard. The hummingbirds love the orange ocotillo blooms. The red flowers in front are Baja fairy duster and the yellow blooms are on a small Mexican bird of paradise which has the potential to be a small tree. I planted it a little too close to the Chitalpa tree which will be covered in pink blooms later. Actually I did not really mean to plant it there, I just put it there because there was a dripper already there and I meant to move it to a better site when I decided where it should go. That was a few year ago.The blooming of the white Lady Banks rose is at an end for this year but it was luscious and heavenly scented while it lasted.
Back to the veggies. My husband asked for kohlrabi (he loves all cruciferous veggies) and it looks like we will actually have a small harvest soon.
In and earlier post I was quite excited about my melon seeds growing. Since then, they have all died and most simply vanished! This was the largest and the last one. The stem is broken. It is either birds or my dog running in the orchard. The melons that I transplanted are still doing well and starting to flower but I mourn the loss of 9 melon plants. I can see that it is the fruit (including tomatoes) that gets me most excited in the garden.
Growing plants from seed is mostly new to me and I'm not doing too well so far. I planted a 4x8 bed with radish and carrot and lettuce seeds and have really tried to keep it damp but I think all I'm going to get is a few radishes. The seeds do sprout but they do not survive.

I planted several packets of cosmos and nasturtium seeds in the middle raised bed and not one has come up. But I planted 4 (only 4!) nasturtium seeds in the pot with the pansies and they are ALL growing . The round leaves are poking up between the pansies. So I must need to cover the soil or otherwise keep it moist for the seedlings to grow. When I lived in San Francisco I just tossed nasturtium seeds around my yard and they grew without effort.

Success and Failure in the Garden

2008-04-10T08:34:00.007-07:00

I got an email from Greg Peterson (The Urban Farm) about a class at the Downtown Market that sounds interesting. I will try to go and post notes here. If you don't already know about The Urban Farm, check it out and get on the mailing list. It was a class by Greg that really inspired me to transform my few citrus into an orchard. The Permaculture Guild has a calendar keeps an online calendar with this class and others.

Class Info:
On Saturday, April 26th from 10:30 to Noon, Doreen Pollack will teach the first of her monthly "What to do in Your Garden this Month" classes designed to demystify gardening in the Valley. This class will be held on the last Saturday of the month with tips for the following month.

Ever wonder when to plant seeds versus transplants? When to fertilize? What needs fertilizing? What plants do well in the garden in the summer? What should I do in my garden NOW? This monthly class will cover all this and more.
Stop in to find out what to do in your garden monthly. Each class is different! You will leave with valuable tips to maximize your time, energy, water and money. Gardening in the desert can be simple and fun!

Bring paper and pen for notes. An outline of the course is available for students.

There is a suggested donation of $10 per class.

- - -

Several people have commented (off the blog) on how nice the garden looks. These people however are not only kind, but not from Arizona so they don't realize that it could be a lot move vigorous and luxuriant with growth than it is by this time of year. My neighbor has already given me fresh tomatoes and he has had lettuce for months.

The shot above is of my especially pitiful flower bed. At the bottom right, pushing up the thyme plant, you may be able to see the mushrooms that are thriving. Sigh. This must mean I am over-watering even though none of the seeds I have planted have come up. I put in a few transplants and lots of nasturtium and cosmos seeds and not a single seedling has poked up.

Meanwhile the 4 nasturtium seeds that I planted in the pansies are growing tall and the transplants in the pots are healthy.

The squash continue to do well, at least two of the three plants are producing and two of the cucumbers are blooming like mad.
The zucchini are slowing growing, not really seeming as strong as expected.
I planted 2 bean transplants and they are growing although the bottom leaves keep getting crispy. Must put up the cages for them.
I have an area that is 4' x 8' in the east raised bed that I devoted to seeds of lettuce (mesclun mixes), radishes and carrots. Below is one of the very few seedlings that have appeared.

Next time I try this I may have to cover the soil to help keep it moist. I do think that birds are ketting some of them. And I think the 'soil' is too coarse. This is the fine stuff that was added later when I could not get anything to grow in the big woody mulch-like stuff that I started with.
I absolutely love Double Delight Roses and I searched and searched and could only find one this year. It was not a healthy plant, lots of mildew and the buds had lots of aphids. But I bought it anyway and planted it in a big container with lots of compost. The smell is wonderful although the flowers do not look quite as usual for a Double Delight, maybe because it's been pretty chilly so far, Once this flush of blooms passes I will cit off all the diseased leaves since the new leaves are all healthy.
I'm still learning to use the camera. This is attempting to show a blossom on the Olallieberry bush which has grown like crazy since planted a few weeks ago. I put it in a very shady area. I do have a Brazos blackberry in a pot that I bought this week and have yet to transplant. It is supposed to take heat better than the Olallieberry.
The Aprium (a plum-apricot cross) has a few fruit.
This is one of the miracles, a melon plant growing from a seed. I planted just a few melon seeds in the orchard area and they have all sprouted.
The artichokes keep producing new leaves while the bottom leaves get crispy. I don't know if this is expected.
It's been extra cool this year. Spring was delayed about three weeks. The year before we had a late hard freeze. I have had a few eggplant transplants die and the peppers don't seem too happy. I may replant the eggplant next week since I think it is finally warming up.

Well OK, it does look lovely anyway. I love getting up each morning and slowly surveying all the changes.

April Garden Guide from the Arizona Republic

2008-04-08T06:48:00.003-07:00

http://www.azcentral.com/arizonarepublic/home/articles/0405aprilgarden0405.html

I don't know if it's OK to quote the whole article but one of my goals in starting this blog was to pull together information like this to help me plan better in future years.

The Arizona Republic credits the following sources for the information in this article:
University of Arizona's Maricopa County Extension, ag.arizona.edu/Maricopa/
Growing Roses in the Desert Southwest, edited by Dona Martin
The Low Desert Herb Garden Handbook, edited by Anne Fischer.

My comments - I don't have grass so I know nothing about the recommendatios for lawns but I left them in for completeness. Don't forget to change your irrigation timer and programming if you have one. I am keeping a log of my settings for future use.

April Garden Guide

The Arizona Republic, Apr. 5, 2008 12:00 AM

Now through October, when plants face the harshest combination of extreme sun exposure and heat, follow a few rules to keep plants irrigated and looking their best.

One rule to especially remember: Deep, infrequent watering is better than a daily sprinkle. What's deep? Watering to penetrate the entire root zone of a plant and no more. Unlike watering a potted plant, where water stays in the pot to be absorbed by the roots, water on the ground doesn't hang out by the root zone indefinitely.

Once water passes the root zone, it keeps on going, wetting the soil, but not benefiting the plant. Although a daily sprinkle might wet the surface of the soil, benefiting shallow roots, the surface is where the plants are exposed to the heat, sun and wind. Deep water encourages deep roots, making a stronger, healthier plant.

When it comes to plant watering, remember: Water to:

1 foot deep for turf, annuals, cactuses, succulents and ground covers;
2 feet deep for shrubs;
3 feet deep for trees.

To measure, start watering the lawn. Take a screwdriver with a long shaft. Jab the screwdriver into the ground and push. If you're nowhere near 12 inches, keep watering for another 15 minutes. Test again.Once you can push the screwdriver 12 inches into the ground easily, stop watering.

Probe tools or lengths of rebar will work for testing water penetration on larger plants. In general, new plants and rosebushes need to be watered more frequently than desert-adapted plants and those that have been in the ground for more than a year. Contact your city water department, or the University of Arizona's Cooperative Extension master gardeners, ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/ or 602-470-8086, to get free literature and advice on lawns and landscaping.

Edibles

The number of crops to plant declines dramatically - there's just enough to keep many green thumbs happy. Growing veggies and herbs from seed is an inexpensive activity. Follow the seed packet's directions for when and how to plant.

Plant seeds of basil, garlic chives, lima and snap beans, black-eyed peas, cucumbers, green onions, melons, okra and summer squash.
Transplant basil, lemon grass, lavender, peppers/chiles, mint and rosemary.
In hot weather, lettuces and spinach bolt quickly, forming tough seed stalks and causing leaves to turn bitter. Save the seeds for next season, or remove plants and add to the compost pile.
For a schedule of vegetable planting dates for Maricopa County, go to ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/.

Ornamentals

Before buying a tree to plant on Arbor Day (April25), ask yourself these questions:

Am I adding a tree for shade or privacy or to hide an unsightly view or to hang a hammock?
Do I want a fruit-bearing, flowering or thorny tree?
Do I prefer a tree that keeps its leaves year-round or loses leaves in the late fall?
How much time and money do I want to invest in fertilizing, pruning, watering and raking leaves?

Roses may need a few sprays of a fungicide, such as Immunox or Funginex, every week to prevent powdery mildew. A regular application of pesticide, such as Bayer Rose and Flower Insect Killer, can ward off aphid and thrip attacks.

For summer or fall blooms, plant native or adapted flowers such as prairie zinnia (Zinnia grandiflora), desert marigold (Baileya multiradiata) or cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus).

Grass:

Mid- to end of April is the best time to seed or sod bare spots or overseed thinning grass.
A good choice for Valley lawns is Bermuda grass.
In shady areas plant dichondra, which is not a grass, but a low-growing plant.
When laying sod, water well and let grass grow long before mowing.

Maintenance

The well-tended April garden is abundant with growing, blooming plants at their peak.

A neglected April garden can be overgrown with weeds, in need of pruning and watering. Look around and assess what worked, what needs to be moved and which area could use a pick-me-up provided by flowering shrubs, sculptural succulents or ornamental grasses.

Plenty of hot months ahead. Check pots to ensure they are not drying out.
Add mulch on pots and beds where it has thinned.
As conditions dry, ensure veggies and fruit trees do not suffer.
Water in the early morning or early evening hours.
Tomatoes in particular can fall victim to various ailments if their water supply varies significantly. Place 50 percent shade cloth over tomatoes to keep leafhopper insects away and to prevent curly top virus. The virus affects more than 150 plants in the Southwest, severely stunting and killing vegetable plants. Check citrus trees, whose shallow roots can suffer when conditions are very dry.
Continue to deadhead annuals and perennials to promote more flowers.
Begin fertilizing Bermuda-grass lawns during late April or early May. Follow directions on the container.

Garden Design & Pictures

2008-04-06T11:19:00.018-07:00

I have acquired a camera and taken a few pictures. Here's a shot of the cheerful pansies I can see out my back sliding doors.

Here is an overview of the garden layout.The Street is at the top (North) and the gate at the bottom (South) leads to the alley where shared garbage and recycling bins live.

The front yard is a desert landscape, low water usage plants and trees on drip irrigation. I'll describe this with pictures in a later post. The house is a typical 1950's rancher made of concrete block - typical for Phoenix anyway.

The whole yard has decomposed granite instead of the grass that was there when we bought the
house.

We used to have a swimming pool but last spring we had it completely removed and filled in.

The pool did look nice. Here's a picture taken with my cell phone camera two summer's ago. Unfortunately when the pool was removed, they removed the broken concrete patio which we loved.

After removing the pool (alas, no photos of the bulldozers), we let it sit for a while to see if the dirt would settle anymore. It stayed level. In November 2007 we had all new irrigation, large raised planters and a mulched orchard area installed. A line for container pots was also installed.

The orchard area is the 12 feet from the back of the raised planters to the existing six foot high block wall that surraounds the back yard. The orchard and the big raises planters are on in-line drip irrigation, called Netafim, which was invented for argicultural use in Israel.

This picture was taken from the East side facing West. The tree is a Chinese Elm. It leafed out in late March.

Here is a closer view of the raised planter on the East side. You can see (from left to right in the orchard area) the new peach trees, a plum, a citrus, an aprium and a Meyer lemon. The gate leads to the alley. The planter is planted with tomatoes, herbs, artichokes and lettuce.

This picture looks East from the Elm tree. The swimming pool used to be in that open area and where the planters are now.

I recently pruned the citrus. My goal is to keep them under 8 feet so I don't have too much fruit from any one tree. Also I'd like to be able to prune and pick without getting on a ladder.

The citrus trees shown are a thornless Mexican lime (very vigorous!), two blood oranges, a grapefruit and orange planted closely together in the corner.

Our other Meyer lemon is to the right of several smaller citrus and some other trees that were recently planted.

That's our dog Ralphie, investigating the containers. I can't resist adding a close-up of Ralphie.

We had various problems with the irrigation but the installers have worked with us and I think it is all working as planned now. I worked with a local company that focues on sustainable landscaping.

I have been a little unhappy with the fill for the raised planters as it is a very coarse woody material which has not worked well for seeds or transplants. The same material was used to put in about 6 inches of mulch in the orchard area and it works great there.

I planted a lot last fall/winter and nothing thrived except one rapini.

A few weeks ago, once the irrigation flooding was solved (a valve problem), we added a lot of finer organic compost to all the raised beds, plus compost tea and fish emulsion. I planted a lot of seeds in the East bed - they are are not doing well. Birds seem to be getting the few that do emerge.

I expect the soil will be better next year after the wood has broken down more. The compost tea and fish emulsion are really helping too.

This week I was excited to get our first tomatoes. This is late, we may not get a harvest before the hot weather stops everything, but I am still excited.

Things grow so fast - here are the first cucumber blossoms.

The squash plant has it's first blossom, complete with tiny pattypan squash. It is planted in the same spot that produced a great rapini plant over the winter so there is something good in the soil in that spot. I planted a yellow squash, a green squash and a yellow zuchinni. Also a 6-pack of green zuchinni in a different area. I wanted to have at least a few things that are easy to grow.

The Mission fig tree on the West side of the house is growing fast. Last year the birds got all the figs but we have hopes for this year. It is not in the orchard area so I am hand watering it. I am hoping for good shade on the Western side of the house in a couple years.

Orange Blossoms

2008-03-22T19:24:00.003-07:00

Finally, the scent of orange blossoms floating thru the air. Wonderful. All the windows open. Lots and lots of birds singing (singing? squwaking?) in the mornings. I bought bunches of daffodils for $1.29 at Trader Joe's yesterday - it must be really spring.

I am appending a list of all the trees in our yard. So many - it's very exciting and they all look happy. All but the almond anyway which is the only one which hasn't broken dormancy - of course it may be dead but I don't think so. I have a diagram in Powerpoint but don't know how to post it here. I wish I could take pictures but I haven't got a camera except the one in my phone which is terrible.

We are almost at the end of our citrus harvest. First we had Fairchild tangerines, then Meyer lemons, pink grapefruit, Arizona sweet oranges and lastly the Sanguinelli blood oranges. No limes at all this year because of last year's frost. The citrus trees are heavy with blooms, especially the Meyer lemons.

I planted a big pot of pansies a month ago and they are gorgeous. They won't last much longer as it gets hotter, but they are a good show for now.

The landscape contractor who re-did the irrigation and added the big raised beds has been here multiple times and finally we think the problem with the irrigation is fixed. Only one of the tomatoes that I planted last month is doing well.

I bought lots more plants yesterday, I think I'll devote one bed to flowers this year at least. Nasturtiums and such.

There are problems with the soil as well but I think I can deal with it and it will get better - too much not fully digested compost is taking all the nitrogen is my guess, confirmed by the landscaper. He's the one who chose the plantering 'soil' so I'm a bit annoyed. I'm adding fish emulsion and it seems to help. The fig is happy too. The big elm tree is all leafed out and the Chitalpas in front have light green leaves popping out.

Spring is so amazing - it all happens so fast. The land banks rose is covered with white fragrant blooms.

Trees as of 3/2008, showing variety and when planted

Citrus - Left to Right
1.Lime – Std Thornless Mexican 2000
2.Blood Orange – Dwarf Sanguinelli 2000
3.Blood Orange – Std Moro 2006
4.Grapefruit – Std Ruby 2000
5.Orange – Std Arizona Sweet 2000
6.Tangerine - Dwarf Dancy 2006
7.Tangerine - Std Kinnow 2006
8.Tangor – Dwarf Honey (Murcott) 2006
9.Lemon - Dwarf Meyer fall 2002
10.Tangerine – Std Clementine
11.Orange – Std Trovita (after the Minneola Tangelo died in the frost) 2007
12.Tangerine – Std Fairchild 2000
13.Tangor – Dwarf Temple 2006
14.Lemon – Dwarf Meyer fall 2002
Deciduous Trees – Left to Right
1.Nectarine Desert Dawn on Nemaguard VERY EARLY 03/2008
2.Nectarine Desert Delight on Nemaguard EARLY 03/08
3.Garden Prince Dwarf Almond LATE 03/08
4.Peaches – 4 trees planted 18” apart all on Nemaguard 03/08
•FloridaPrince VERY EARLY – EARLY (back left) 03/08
•Eva’s Pride EARLY-MID (front left) 03/08
•Mid-Pride EARLY MID MID (front right) 03/08
•August-Pride Peach MID (back right) 03/08
5.Burgundy Plum on Namaguard peach rootstock – MID-LATE 03/08
6.Flavor Delight Aprium on citation hybrid rootstock – EARLY 03/08
7.Chinese Elm
8.Fig - Mission fall 2006
9.Two Chitalpa Trees in front yard, not shown, pink flowering cross between Catalpa and Dessert Willow - 2000